X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from [161.88.255.139] (account marv@lancaironline.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro WEBUSER 5.1c.4) with HTTP id 1426028 for lml@lancaironline.net; Fri, 29 Sep 2006 09:52:14 -0400 From: "Marvin Kaye" Subject: Re: [LML] Re: WLS Primer Spraying? To: lml X-Mailer: CommuniGate Pro WebUser v5.1c.4 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2006 09:52:14 -0400 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: <20060929040145.55655.qmail@web54314.mail.yahoo.com> References: <20060929040145.55655.qmail@web54314.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1";format="flowed" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Posted for randy snarr : My 2 cents worth, after painstakingly filling holes and holes and holes I can tell you it is a pain to get them all. After trying many methods I have concluded that brushing the first coat or 2 is the way to go. You will make some work for yourself to sand to do this but to get a good finish you must fill the holes with something. Don't be afraid to use 80 or 100 grit on the first few coats to smooth out the brush marks. There will be plenty of priming and sanding after that to fill in the scratches. Oh and dont use the compressor to keep blowing off the surface. You only empty the holes out. Wipe it off with a suitable solvent instead. Go slow and brush in several directions with thinned out primer. It will penetrate the holes better thin. Be careful to not to sand through the primer to the surface especially on the edges/corners, you will only expose the airframe and it's many holes again. Spray 2 or 3 thin coats and sand as necessary. One other item before the above process I took superfil body filler and used a one sided razor blade and with some pressure squeegied it all over the surface. Working small areas at a time being careful to work the stuff into the weave. it takes an extremely small amout of filler to do this. If you do this right you will leave a surface that looks wet but does not change the color of the surface except the holes will be light blue (filled with filler). This filler is far lighter than primer and sands easier too. Do this and you will save your self much work down the road. Follow it up with the above and you are on your way to a nice finish. One last trick that I learned from the Vari EZ guys. Make yourself 3 sanding blocks that are the size of a sheet of sand paper out of fiber glass. Make one 1/16" thick and one 3/32 and the 3 rd 1/8 "or so making sure to they cure out FLAT and smooth as if they were laid up on super smooth surface with a release like clear tape on a piece of glass. Once they cure trim the outer edge to match the 8 x 10 " sand paper and add 2 pieces of 3/4" alum angle along the long side for a hand hold. On the other side, use automotive spray sand paper adhesive to stick what ever grit paper you are using. You will have 3 sanding tools that have varying degress of flex. They do a beautiful job all over the airplane. On the curves they do thier magic. When the paper is used up simply peel off and stick another on and keep going. This is good step after board sanding go get the surface FLAT! I am sure there are many ways to do the job but I believe the above is shortest distance to a beautiful finish job. The OSH judges liked it enough to give me an outstanding workmanship award which is probably 85% paint work...See Attached. Hope that helps!!! Keep at it!! Randy L. Snarr 235/320 98% 104 hours Upholstry next week!