X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 15:42:44 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from ms-smtp-03.texas.rr.com ([24.93.47.42] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1c.4) with ESMTP id 1423700 for lml@lancaironline.net; Wed, 27 Sep 2006 20:51:07 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=24.93.47.42; envelope-from=toucan@Satx.rr.com Received: from VAIO (cpe-24-243-1-103.satx.res.rr.com [24.243.1.103]) by ms-smtp-03.texas.rr.com (8.13.6/8.13.6) with SMTP id k8S0oHNc026719 for ; Wed, 27 Sep 2006 19:50:18 -0500 (CDT) X-Original-Message-ID: <002301c6e298$05d6afe0$6701f318@VAIO> From: "James Cameron" X-Original-To: "Lancair Mailing List" Subject: Primers X-Original-Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 19:49:57 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0020_01C6E26E.1C78B330" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2869 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2962 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C6E26E.1C78B330 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Yes, some paint manufacturers are pushing the water-based products, = mainly because the EPA is coming down ever harder on VOC's (volatile = solvents) in the older formulations. Having had one bad experience with = water-based primers, however, I'd say stay away from them until they've = been in use long enough to have a large, happy customer base. In other = words, let someone else be the guinea pig on something cheaper than your = Lancair. As for seeing fabric weave, in just the right light I've been able = to do that with all three planes I've finished, one painted with Siemens = products, one with PPG, and the third with Imron. Check some of the = planes at your next local fly-in. It seems that polymerization (cure) = of these paints is not quite an on/off, 0 or 1 affair. Over time, the = process goes slower and slower, but probably doesn't reach near zero = until after you've done your wet-sanding and buff-out. If you're really = a perfectionist, you might want to fly for a while with the as-shot = paint finish, zits and orange peel and all (What? You don't get any of = that when you spray?) , then wet sand and buff out in maybe six months. I've used the WLS primer and found it to be great stuff, but it's = beastly hard to sand. I've also used PPG epoxy primer, with which I had = some fish-eye problems (probably silicone lubricant in a syringe, but = that's another story), then DuPont's Corlar epoxy, with is very good, = and more recently, an acrylic urethane primer sold under the Transtar = name and used commonly by auto body shops. Both the Corlar and Transtar = have good build, and are relatively easy to sand; these sorts of primers = are often called primer/surfacers in the auto trade. Both are = compatible with common finish coats, both single stage and base/clear. Water-based paints sound good, but I'd be very wary of 'em. [BTW, another problem with flying in primer is that it's a bear to = really, really de-grease the primer before proceeding with the finish = coat. If you've had any silicone products anywhere near it, like = windshield goo that some folks like, or Lemon Pledge, which I've had = recommended to me by certain factory personnel who shall remain = nameless, you haven't a prayer of getting a good finish coat without a = huge amount of work. Jim Cameron Boerne, TX Legacy N132X (reserved) ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C6E26E.1C78B330 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Yes, some paint manufacturers are = pushing=20 the water-based products, mainly because the EPA is coming down ever = harder on=20 VOC's (volatile solvents) in the older formulations. Having had = one bad=20 experience with water-based primers, however, I'd say stay away from = them until=20 they've been in use long enough to have a large, happy customer = base. In=20 other words, let someone else be the guinea pig on something cheaper = than your=20 Lancair.

As for seeing fabric weave, in = just the=20 right light I've been able to do that with all three planes I've = finished, one=20 painted with Siemens products, one with PPG, and the third with = Imron. =20 Check some of the planes at your next local fly-in. It seems that=20 polymerization (cure) of these paints is not quite an on/off, 0 or 1=20 affair. Over time, the process goes slower and slower, but = probably=20 doesn't reach near zero until after you've done your wet-sanding and=20 buff-out. If you're really a perfectionist, you might want to fly = for a=20 while with the as-shot paint finish, zits and orange peel and all = (What?=20 You don't get any of that when you spray?) , then wet sand and buff = out in=20 maybe six months.

I've used the WLS primer and = found it to be=20 great stuff, but it's beastly hard to sand. I've also used PPG = epoxy=20 primer, with which I had some fish-eye problems (probably silicone = lubricant in=20 a syringe, but that's another story), then DuPont's Corlar epoxy, with = is very=20 good, and more recently, an acrylic urethane primer sold under the = Transtar name=20 and used commonly by auto body shops. Both the Corlar and Transtar = have=20 good build, and are relatively easy to sand; these sorts of primers are = often=20 called primer/surfacers in the auto trade. Both are compatible = with common=20 finish coats, both single stage and base/clear.

Water-based paints sound good, = but I'd be=20 very wary of 'em.

[BTW, another problem with flying = in primer=20 is that it's a bear to really, really de-grease the primer before = proceeding=20 with the finish coat. If you've had any silicone products anywhere = near=20 it, like windshield goo that some folks like, or Lemon Pledge, which = I've had=20 recommended to me by certain factory personnel who shall remain = nameless, you=20 haven't a prayer of getting a good finish coat without a=20 huge amount of work.

Jim Cameron

Boerne, TX

Legacy N132X (reserved)

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