X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:08:02 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-m25.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.6] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1c.4) with ESMTP id 1420984 for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 26 Sep 2006 09:19:52 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.6; envelope-from=MikeEasley@aol.com Received: from MikeEasley@aol.com by imo-m25.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r7.6.) id q.c6e.da9043 (65097) for ; Tue, 26 Sep 2006 09:18:51 -0400 (EDT) From: MikeEasley@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: X-Original-Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2006 09:18:51 EDT Subject: Re: [LML] Re: WLS Primer Spraying? X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1159276731" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5326 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1159276731 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Kevin, When it comes to bodywork and priming, you're likely to get 20 different answers from 20 people. That said, here's my version. I used WLS and thought it worked fine. Really blow off the surface first to get the dust out of the pinholes or the primer won't soak down into the holes. Roll on the first two coats with a foam roller, using a Bondo squeegee to work it down into the weave. Then roll it smooth after squeegeeing. No reducer in the rolled on coats. Sand the first two coats. I would spray all additional coats. The thing about rolling is your primer buildup is only as thick as the thinnest part of your coat. And when you roll, you get texture. It takes a few strokes of sanding to knock off the texture and there's very little primer buildup left to fill your low spots. I probably wasted 2 gallons of very expensive primer learning that lesson. Spraying gives a smooth and even thickness coat. I sprayed WLS with very little reducer added, just enough so it would spray well through the gun. I wanted maximum build. Unlike paint, primer practically dries before it hits the hangar floor. So masking and cleanup aren't that bad in my opinion. I bought a cheap HVLP gun at Harbor Freight and it worked very well with WLS and other primer-surfacers I used. The left over reducer works great for cleaning the gun. The time you save in rolling over spraying is not worth it when you figure in the amount of primer that's wasted due to the roller texture. Mike Easley Colorado Springs Super ES PS I tried water based primer and it had less build and takes longer to dry than the WLS. -------------------------------1159276731 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Kevin,

When it comes to bodywork and priming, you're likely to get 20 differen= t=20 answers from 20 people. That said, here's my version.

I used WLS and thought it worked fine. Really blow off the surfac= e=20 first to get the dust out of the pinholes or the primer won't soak down into= the=20 holes. Roll on the first two coats with a foam roller, using a Bondo=20 squeegee to work it down into the weave. Then roll it smooth after=20 squeegeeing. No reducer in the rolled on coats. Sand the first t= wo=20 coats.

I would spray all additional coats. The thing about rolling is yo= ur=20 primer buildup is only as thick as the thinnest part of your=20 coat. And when you roll, you get texture. It takes a few strokes= of=20 sanding to knock off the texture and there's very little primer buildup left= to=20 fill your low spots. I probably wasted 2 gallons of very expensive pri= mer=20 learning that lesson. Spraying gives a smooth and even=20 thickness coat. I sprayed WLS with very little reducer added, jus= t=20 enough so it would spray well through the gun. I wanted maximum=20 build. Unlike paint, primer practically dries before it hits the hanga= r=20 floor. So masking and cleanup aren't that bad in my opinion. I=20 bought a cheap HVLP gun at Harbor Freight and it worked very well with WLS a= nd=20 other primer-surfacers I used. The left over reducer works great for=20 cleaning the gun.

The time you save in rolling over spraying is not worth it when you fig= ure=20 in the amount of primer that's wasted due to the roller texture.

Mike Easley

Colorado Springs

Super ES

PS I tried water based primer and it had less build and takes lon= ger=20 to dry than the WLS.

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