In a message dated 5/5/2006 12:52:04 A.M. Central Standard Time,
jskiba@icosa.net writes:
Question
for all you Paint - Primmer experts.
I am planning on Flying initially
in WLS primmer before final paint.
My question is: When the WLS is
sprayed on it is sort of rough or slightly
"dimpled" for lack of a better
word, but once sanded a little is very very
smooth.
If you are going
to fly in primmer should you NOT sand smooth the WLS but
leave the
"dimpled" finish, or can one sand the surface smooth and FLY?
I guess
the real question is: Does sanding WLS open the sealed primmer up or
cause
other problems for latter on.
I hope that makes
sense.
Jeff,
I flew my 320 in smoothly sanded WLS primer (about 320 grit) for over
a year. Final paint prep included cleaning and very lightly sanding the
primer. The resulting finish has held up (base coat, clear coat) for ten
years and 700 flight hours.
Problems:
1. The WLS sanded primer coat was very susceptible to creating static in
flight. I never got the Loran receiver to work in flight although it
worked fine on the ground. Passing my hand along the cowl would cause the
hair on my arm to stand up. In other words, some avionics might not work
properly whilst flying in WLS primer because of excessive static.
2. The temporary N-number was painted on with Krylon. While it was
easily cleaned off with acetone, it left the primer slightly raised, outlining
the prior number under the final paint. It took about 6 months before the
swelling completely disappeared.
3. Some pin-holes were missed and appeared after the final paint. No
more than 15 gathered in about 3 spots on the side of the canopy and
cowl.
Suggestions:
1. Don't sand the last coat of primer. Leave that for the final paint
prep.
2. If the primer is sanded, perhaps apply a final coat of primer after
cleaning and before painting.
3. Find a better way to affix the N-number to the primer (decal?).
4. I only made changes to "experiments" that involved the cowl (air in and
out), a wing tip and the nose gear door. I should have painted the
airplane except for the cowl before flight. Control surfaces and doors can
be easily repainted. The cowl can always be painted later. Unless
you want to shake out a show plane before painting it or are in a rush to get it
in the air, paint most of it before flight testing.
The problem are facts and the suggestions are worth their cost - $0.00.
Scott Krueger
AKA Grayhawk
Lancair N92EX IO320 CS Prop
Slow Build 1989, Flown 1996
Aurora, IL (KARR)
Eschew
Obfuscation!