X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 12:26:44 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from [72.240.1.233] (HELO mail.buckeye-express.com) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.9) with ESMTP id 1071803 for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 18 Apr 2006 07:58:47 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=72.240.1.233; envelope-from=bknotts@buckeye-express.com Received: from [192.168.20.100] (unverified [72.240.220.4]) by mail.buckeye-express.com (Rockliffe SMTPRA 7.0.3) with ESMTP id for ; Tue, 18 Apr 2006 07:58:50 -0400 X-Original-Message-ID: <4444D488.4090705@buckeye-express.com> X-Original-Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 07:59:04 -0400 From: "F. Barry Knotts" Reply-To: bknotts884@earthlink.net User-Agent: Thunderbird 1.5 (Windows/20051201) MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Original-To: Lancair Mailing List Subject: Re: [LML] LIV - Rudder Cable Housings References: In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Nicholas Paczkowski wrote: > > I am about to install the nylon housing (tubing) for the rudder cables ... > I just did the same job. Just some thoughts: The manual is not terribly useful. I used it mainly to determine the forward starting place for the housing attach point. I carefully warmed the nylon housing in the kitchen oven set to 200 degrees. (The nylon tubing is printed with a notice - "Max working temperature - 212 degrees.") It came out very warm to the touch, but able to be handled. I then shaped it with my hands to straighten it out before it cooled. You only have a couple of minutes...unless you crawl in the oven. I needed to repeat the warming a couple of times on one section to get it right. I then marked with a silver Sharpie on the outside of the fuselage the measured fore and aft height of the ends of the cable. I used a laser line projector set up outside the fuselage to connect the two points. I marked the outside of the fuse along the laser line. Then removed the laser and transferred the outside line to the inside of the fuselage simply by measuring down the outside of the fuse to the laser established line and transfered the measurement to the inside of the fuse. This established a very straight shot front to back. But be aware - you can curve the line upwards by shooting the laser line from above the level of the cable run due to the outward curve of the fuselage. Or vise-versa. I tried this same procedure with the laser line projector inside the fuse and got essentially the same result with a lot more work as the entire length could not be shot at one time (bulkheads, etc. blocking the beam). BTW I've found the laser line projector from Home Depot to be invaluable. The model I have is: Stanley Fat-Max CL2 "Cross Line Level." I used it in the "non-leveling" mode so I wouldn't need to adjust the fuse, just the projector. I'm sure any similar product would do the job. I found that on the left side of the fuselage I needed to fudge the midpoint of the line for the cable upward about 3/8 inch because of interference with the previously placed aileron control box. I drilled the holes through all the bulkheads, then finished them with a micro hand grinder to make them as close to the sidewall of the fuse as possible. I tacked the housing along its route with superglue while I had the cable in the housing and attached at the front and weighted at the rear to keep the housing straight. Careful here to not cause sharp bends at each bulkhead pass through. I covered the entire run with 1 bid. I also have put the turnbuckles at the back attached to the internal bellcrank and the swagged on end of the cable attached to the rudder pedals at the front. Hope this helps you. My setup seems to have worked well...but, I'm still building, so only time will tell. If you would like pictures, I could provide them. If there are any questions, feel free. Barry Knotts LIV-P, Conti TSIO-550 / Building, Perrysburg, Ohio bknotts884@earthlink.net