X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from [69.171.58.236] (account marv@lancaironline.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro WebUser 5.0.9) with HTTP id 1062893 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sun, 09 Apr 2006 00:38:10 -0400 From: "Marvin Kaye" Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Prop Overspeed To: lml X-Mailer: CommuniGate Pro WebUser v5.0.9 Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 00:38:10 -0400 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: <003201c65b08$8e452540$1a00b20c@George> References: <003201c65b08$8e452540$1a00b20c@George> X-Priority: 3 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Posted for "George Shattuck" : Lorn Olsen I had this exact same problem (canted crankshaft plug) during initial flights with my airplane and the IO-320 Lycoming. To make a long and expensive story short, I purchased a plug from Sacramento Sky Ranch for $13.08. The plug is installed with a pipe like tool with a slot cut in it to allow it to pass by the oil transfer tube inside the crankshaft. I believe the tool is called a "drift." The plug looks like a small dish with the side of the dish about 1/4 inch high. It is inserted into the crankshaft with fingers and help of a couple of screwdrivers with the flange facing forward. Once in place the tool is slipped into the crank with the oil tube going up into the slot in the tool. The plug has to fit onto the end of the tool and when tool and plug is in place with hand pressure, it will take a couple of taps with a hammer to set the plug firmly in place. You will see that the slot in the tool has to be cut deep enough so the oil tube will not bottom out before the crankshaft plug is firmly in place. I had suspected the governor so pulled that and had it overhauled, but the prop would still overspeed in flight, but check normally on the ground. With the prop removed and a flashlight up the crankshaft we discovered the tilted crankshaft plug. The plug also was not the correct part. The friend of mine who had overhauled my engine had installed what appeared to be a freeze plug, like that which is in an engine block, without the dishlike side described above. I found an engineering drawing of the correct part in the Lycoming overhaul manual. This might be a fuzzy explanation but if you look the situation over inside that crankshaft with a flashlight you will get the idea. Lorn, the crankshaft DOES NOT HAVE TO BE REMOVED to get that plug in there. You might be able to find the insertion tool in an overhaul shop somewhere. In my case, a good friend, Bucky Whittier, in Truckee, California made the tool in his shop after looking the situation over. He still has that tool I will bet. Bucky's phone is 530 587-6166. His E-mail is buckyw@sbcglobal.net . George Shattuck N320GS