Return-Path: Received: from smtp01.infoave.net ([165.166.0.26]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Tue, 21 Sep 1999 11:12:28 -0400 Received: from citcom.net.citcom.net ("port 1218"@[206.74.232.140]) by SMTP00.InfoAve.Net (PMDF V5.1-12 #23426) with SMTP id <01JG8ARWUR1M8WXPLS@SMTP00.InfoAve.Net> for lancair.list@olsusa.com; Tue, 21 Sep 1999 11:16:08 EDT Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 06:44:31 -0400 From: John Cooper Subject: SB050-0999 To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Message-id: <3.0.5.32.19990921064431.0094dea0@mail.citcom.net> X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> In general, epoxy doesn't stick very well to phenolic. Using glass-epoxy over a piece of phenolic to hold it in place after it is bonded is fine, but never, never count on epoxy (or flox or micro) as a primary bond for a piece of phenolic. I did some experiments on this early on, and found that a quick rap with a hammer would pop off a phenolic button glued with epoxy, so I started using Hysol to bond in all my various phenolic pieces and hardpoints. The phenolic would delaminate befor the Hysol glue joint would separate. (Then I applied the required number of bid tapes over the top as instructed by the plans, of course.) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html