Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net>
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 00:32:31 -0500
Message-ID: <redirect-951522@logan.com>
Received-SPF: none
 receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.86.89.68; envelope-from=skipslater@earthlink.net
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
  s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net;
  b=jsC6o3VOWLyvpHSyu0w+Xj9oLs25P2XZRVvA3dFC6uvMCFBTCAKnyIkGq3XdLw/Y;
  h=Received:Message-ID:From:To:References:Subject:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding:X-Priority:X-MSMail-Priority:X-Mailer:X-MimeOLE:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP;
From: "Skip Slater" <skipslater@earthlink.net>
References: <list-950708@logan.com>
Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Heater plumbing
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	format=flowed;
	charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=response
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Chat,
   I had the same problem with my ES, though my baffling is different for my 
Lycoming installation.  I have a sloped piece up front behind the intake 
scoop and had an intake flange mounted on that.    What I recently did was 
enlarge the flange and hose to the heat muff to 2 1/4" (this requires a 
larger intake port on the heat muff) and I also made a fiberglass scoop that 
grabs the air and forces it into the intake flange.  (I've also seen scoops 
made from aluminum.)  The difference in airflow coming out of the heat vents 
was significant.  I haven't had  a chance to fly a high altitude trip in 
really cold air to see how the cabin warms up, but it should be better than 
it was.  My back seat pax had fog coming out of their mouths when they were 
talking before I did the mod.
   Good luck,
   Skip Slater