Return-Path: Received: from olympus.net ([198.133.237.1]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:24:08 -0500 Received: from sq19446.olympus.net ([207.149.194.46] helo=bill) by olympus.net with smtp (Exim 2.02 #1) id 10P8Sp-0001rT-00 for lancair.list@olsusa.com; Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:26:11 -0800 Message-ID: <003c01be7489$12efce80$08c295cf@bill> From: "William T Bartlett" To: Subject: Thoughts on wheel well painting. Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:26:03 -0800 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> It's hard to paint in wheel wells. If you spray it just wants to blow back out. If you don't have the top skin on mask the areas that the bid attaching the top skins will go and paint the lower half and ribs before you put the top skin on. Painting the top skin only isn't all that hard in place, but I'd paint it too before installing. This way you only have to paint the top tapes when you are done. The placement of the tank fitting is right on the plans, so you can mask that off too on the BL 50 rib. Polyurethane paint pulls itself tight as it dries, so you can do a very credible job with a paint brush and rollers. Judges can't get their heads inside wheel wells to see minor blemishes. Polyurethane is easy to clean when you throw mud up in the wheel wells. Hydraulic fluid won't eat polyurethane, like it does other paints, either. Bill N7WB