From: Sky2high@aol.com
Message-ID: <45df8f2a.36ea64eb@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 08:15:23 EST
To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
Subject: Re: Acetone, working gloves
Mime-Version: 1.0

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I always used acetone as the final step in the clean-up process prior to
bonding or glassing.
 
1. Sand to get rid of any shiney areas and to open up underlalying fibers.
2. Use enamel reducer (such as Dupont 21S) to remove oil, wax, dirt, etc.
3. Use acetone to remove any residue and dry the area.

Paper toweling is used.  It is turned frequently and a new towel is introduced
as soon as the old one becomes dirty.  Any toweling particles left behind are
easily brushed away. 

Acetone is useful in cleaning up glassing tools and the plexiglass covered
work table.  Acetone and paper towel pads are used to clean up the area around
glass work such as drips and epoxy beyond the newly laid glass.  It is
effective because it evaporates so quickly it does not attack the epoxy next
to the wiped area.

The most effective gloves are the yellow playtex dishwashing gloves.  They
last about 3 months before drying out or breaking (BTW, since I am left-
handed, I have about 10 slightly used right-handed gloves available).  They're
cheap and readily obtained at your local grocery store or your own kitchen.

NOTE:  Use gloves.  For the first 3 years of my 7-year Lancair 320 (pre-fast
build) project, I used to wash my hands with acetone to clean up epoxy.  As a
result, parts of my fingers experience a permanent dryness and develop painful
cracks in the wintertime  I use bandaids to retain moisture in the crack prone
areas (I have two on my fingers as I sit here and type) and some cracks become
large enough to warrant closing with super-glue.  I must now avoid getting any
volatile substance on my hands (such as 100 LL) since it instantly dries out
my skin. 

Be careful out there....

Scott Krueger
N92EX