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Rob Terry... you should probably use a reamer to open the sockets in the
engine mount to accept the AN7-23A bolts which came with the kit. If you
contact a local machine tool supply house they can provide you with the
proper tool, and you might want to specify an extra couple thousandths of
an inch clearance in the process (ie, order reamer for 0.440 inches instead
of exactly 0.4375.) Don't use a drill bit to open up the holes if you can
help it, as it will not open them up exactly round as a reamer will. (If
you can't find a reamer locally, a very good friend of mine runs a tooling
supply company called Swift Saw & Tool, you can reach him at 708-335-0550,
ask for Paul Kawka and tell him I told you to call. Get their catalog as
well.)
Additionally, if you're concerned about puckering the ss firewall you'll
want to build in some phenolic standoffs for all the bolts that go through
it. (I know, this is considered overkill by many, but it is a viable
option to simply compressing the fiberfrax and denting the stainless.)
Check out the photos submitted by Chris Zavatson on 12/2/98 on the LML
homepage Attachments section
(http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html#attach) which show how he
went about performing this operation. I know this is more than you
asked, but it should answer your question about whether or not you can
mount the nosewheel before installing the SS firewall. In a nutshell, it
is important that you determine the actual mounting position of the mount
pads, as how far forward they are from the plywood firewall will determine
the ultimate angle of your nosegear strut. If you don't plan on
their final location you will not be able to hit that 8 degree forward
rake that is called out in the manual. (Myron Oakley is planning on
producing steel o/c links in the future which will incorporate an
adjustable rod end to the nose gear strut to allow for final adjustment of
the strut angle. He will advise us when these parts are going to be
made available.)
I hope this helps you out.
<Marv>
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