Return-Path: Received: from mail.link.no ([193.213.36.68]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Fri, 25 Dec 1998 07:29:38 -0500 Received: from laptopp (max3-039.link.no [148.122.162.167]) by mail.link.no (8.8.8/8.8.6) with ESMTP id NAA27676 for ; Fri, 25 Dec 1998 13:30:30 GMT Message-Id: <199812251330.NAA27676@mail.link.no> From: "Roy" To: Subject: outback gear Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1998 13:38:47 +0100 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Rob , I finished my gearwells and doors some weeks ago and I have a few tips for you. I also have the BIG wheels. - If your foamblocks for the bellypan ended up being rather thin you are going to have problem fitting the wheels in the wells heightwise (trust me, I know!) You will have to remove some core material inside the stubwing skin and warm up the doors and "bend" them. My point is: Do not finish off the doors, floxing the edges and so on before the stubwing skin is in place, because you might have to make the doors slightly bigger when they have been "bent" Fwd an aft location of the door cutout - your guess is correct, but don't forget the lip. One more thing: the centerline of the outboard door pivot is on the drawing to much outboard. Move it inboard ca. 1/4 inch, if not your door will "hit" the lower stubwing skin when the gear is is down. Regards , Roy (the Norwegian)