Return-Path: Received: from www05.netaddress.usa.net ([204.68.24.25]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with SMTP id com for ; Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:40:17 -0500 Received: (qmail 25261 invoked by uid 60001); 19 Dec 1998 06:41:30 -0000 Message-ID: <19981219064130.25260.qmail@www05.netaddress.usa.net> Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 06:41:30 From: Dan Schaefer To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Subject: water level X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> In reference to making the water level tool work just a teensy bit better: First, when the water is almost at the same level at both ends of the tube, the differential pressure is almost nil - so any resistance to free flow will leave a residual error. One of the major sources of such resistance is surface tension at the air/water/tubing ID interface (with some plastics that the tubing is made of, being far worse than others). This effect can be significantly reduced by mixing a small amount of detergent (liquid dishwashing type works fine) into the water before pouring it into the tube. I've also found that adding a bit of food dye to the water as well makes it much easier to read. Also, if you remember your high-school chemistry lab work, the surface of the water inside the tube will form a curve with the low part in the middle. (This curved surface inside the tube is called the meniscus -in case you're interested) and you should use the bottom of the meniscus as your measuring level at each end - it provides the most accuracy. Lastly, get ALL the bubbles out. By the way, I read somewhere that the ancient Egyptians used a similar method to level the foundations of the Pyrimids, so there really isn't anything new under the sun - at least in this century. Cheers, Dan Schaefer N235SP