Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 14:58:20 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from smtprelay2.dc3.adelphia.net ([24.50.78.5] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0b1) with ESMTP id 1235572 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sun, 12 May 2002 12:29:24 -0400 Received: from worldwinds ([207.175.254.66]) by smtprelay2.dc3.adelphia.net (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) with SMTP id GW0B4I00.A1C for ; Sun, 12 May 2002 12:29:06 -0400 From: "Gary Casey" X-Original-To: "lancair list" Subject: diodes across relays X-Original-Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 09:25:46 -0700 X-Original-Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: Normal X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600.0000 <> 1. Jim Cameron gave a nice reply, but I'll give one in other words that might help. Just imagine that a coil of wire (inductor to be precise) has inertia - it takes time for current to get flowing, but once the current has built up it wants to keep going. Suddenly opening the circuit with a switch disrupts the current and something has to give. What happens is that the voltage rapidly builds up until the energy is absorbed someplace. One place is in a arc across the switch contacts and the other is by the internal capacitance of the coil. During this process the voltage could easily build up to more than 100 volts. Imagine that the switch is on the "high side", or feeding the relay from the battery. When the switch is opened the relay coil tries to keep going, essentially "sucking" current from the downstream side of the switch, pulling the voltage negative or below ground. This sounds like a terrible thing, but it happens every time an inductive load is shut off, usually not bothering anything too badly. In cars no diodes are generally used and the system is just beefed up to tolerate the voltage spikes. In an aircraft, however, the switches are pretty delicate and there are lots of radios that pick respond to transients, so diodes are often placed across relays. We used to call them "free-wheeling" diodes because they allow current to flow in a circle from the negative (grounded) end of the coil to the positive end. When the switch is opened the current in the coil continues to flow around this loop until the resistance of the coil dissipates the energy. (a picture would be worth a thousand words) 2. If you don't use diodes switch life might be reduced and radios might pick up some noise - you could possibly hear a "pop" in the audio. Other than that nothing will happen. The normal failure mode for a diode is to short. The failure is typically caused by over-voltage (called back-biasing) or an over-current. Over-voltage can happen in a "load dump" condition when the voltage regulator is unable to shut down the alternator fast enough when a load is disconnected. These events do happen and that's why it is important for the diode to be rated at 100 volts or more. High current conditions are not possible as the only current the diode conducts is the relay coil current and that is less than an amp in most cases. Personally, I would not use a diode in any relay that draws less than maybe .2 amps as the voltage transient isn't enough to worry about. I said the switch life MIGHT be reduced - a small arc on opening tends to burn off dirt and oxide that builds up on the contacts so putting a diode on the relay could actually reduce switch life. For typical switches not enough of a consideration to worry about. 3. The diode needs to be across the relay coil so that it doesn't conduct with the normal battery polarity. Imagine the painted bar on the diode to be the "+" indication so that goes on the "high side" of the coil. The diode could be installed in any location - at the relay or at the switch, but it is slightly more effective at the coil as the current loop is shorter. Note that these diodes aren't magic as there is a slight time delay before they conduct and there will still be a very short voltage spike every time you open the circuit. Jim is right in that the most commonly found diode - the 1N4002 is as good a choice as any as it is, IIRC, rated at over 1 amp and 100 volts. (will conduct 1 amp continuously without overheating in the forward direction and not conduct with 100 volts applied in the reverse direction) Incidentally, diodes are NOT TO BE USED at the mag connections to the ignition switch. This very voltage transient that the diode eliminates is the spark. In other words a mag uses the voltage transient from opening the circuit of an inductor (the coil) to create the spark. Put a diode across that and no spark. Why doesn't all this create radio interference? The wires are all shielded. That brings up a question, though - why use so many relays? They add weight, complexity, failure modes, cost and build time. For resistive loads like the pitot heater there is no voltage transient to damage the switch so all you need is a switch rated at 15 amps or so. Even for a flap servo motor the current draw is not all that great. The voltage transient from opening the master relay doesn't effect much of anything since most everything is shut off. The highest current relay coil is probably the for the starter contactor and you might want one there. These devices don't exist in cars because of reliability issues, cost and reverse polarity protection. Each of these diodes will turn into a short if you connect power backwards with the switch turned on. Not likely, but possible. Sorry about the long post - Jim's was much shorter and to the point! Gary Casey ES project (with as few relays as I can get by with - maybe the only one in the airplane will be the starter contactor)