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<<Strip about 8 - 10 mm of insulation off the wires (no nicks!),
tin them, slip a 15 mm piece of heat shrink over one wire, solder the
ends together facing each other and side by side, heat, shrink (verb).
<SNIP>


Good advice, Brent.  Another approach that I often use and which I think is
completely legit is to stagger the splices about an inch.  Strip the wires
and push one wire "into" the other  with the strands interleaved, not
twisted.  Solder each connection being careful not to let the solder wick
into the wire too much.  Then put one shrink tube over both  It makes the
splice very compact and uses the original insulation to protect one wire
against the other.  Incidentally, it used to be 50 years ago that no
automotive connectors were sealed.  Then only the engine compartment
connector were sealed.  Now, most connectors are sealed from the elements as
there is a corrosion potential even inside the car (plane).  Why don't
aircraft use sealed connectors?  Like I said, 50 years
ago.......Incidentally, the "new" Cessnas use some automotive-type
connectors under the cowl.Of course they are the type (Metri-pack) that
are now obsolete in the automotive world. You could argue that with a sealed
connector gold plating isn't necessary but still desirable.I plan to use either
sealed automotive-type or aerospace connectors or splices.
Gary Casey
ES project, so far only one wire installed to aileron trim, spliced.



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