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<< Lancair Builders' Mail List >>
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In a message dated 9/24/2001 10:42:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
lancair.list@olsusa.com writes:
<< I'm not sure what 'peening' really is but I just did some 1 1/4" control
rods this weekend so I had to make a quess. I held the manufactured head
against an anvil and formed the shop head with a hammer. The rivets were one
size to large which is usually bad news with a squeezer or rivet gun, but
worked very well with the hammer >>
I have tried to bash rivets with a hammer with results that are always
unsuccessful. This is especially true with rivets that are even a tad too
long. I squeeze mine with a rivet squeezer, which works fine. Rumor has it
that there is a potential for bending the rivet in the unsupported section in
the threaded rod end, but this doesn't seem to be a problem with the little
(3/8 inch ID control rods). The larger ones should be filled with something
to support the rivet and keep it from bending -- epoxy/flox, for example, or
epoxy/micro. I ran experiments with aluminum tubes (cheaper than threaded
rod ends) and this method worked just fine. Put the stuff in and let it
harden BEFORE you drill the rivet hole.
In my mind, the important thing is that the pin (the rivet) is there to hold
the tension forces in the rod (resolved in shear by the rivet) and that there
is a satisfactory shop head to keep the rivet from falling out. If it looks
like a banana inside, hell, I don't care.
An A&P friend once asked me "Why don't any of you homebuilders ever drill
vent holes in your pushrods like the big boys?" I had no answer but told him
that I have my control pushrod stock alodined prior to cutting them to
length. He was unimpressed.
- Rob Wolf
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LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/mkaye/maillist.html
LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair
Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com.
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