From: RWolf99@aol.com
Message-ID: <124.4eaad69.28e21ddc@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 13:50:20 EDT
Subject: Peening Control Rod Rivets
To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
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Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com

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In a message dated 9/24/2001 10:42:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
lancair.list@olsusa.com writes:

<< I'm not sure what 'peening' really is but I just did some 1 1/4" control 
 rods this weekend so I had to make a quess. I held the manufactured head 
 against an anvil and formed the shop head with a hammer. The rivets were one 
 size to large which is usually bad news with a squeezer or rivet gun, but 
 worked very well with the hammer >>

I have tried to bash rivets with a hammer with results that are always 
unsuccessful.  This is especially true with rivets that are even a tad too 
long.  I squeeze mine with a rivet squeezer, which works fine.  Rumor has it 
that there is a potential for bending the rivet in the unsupported section in 
the threaded rod end, but this doesn't seem to be a problem with the little 
(3/8 inch ID control rods).  The larger ones should be filled with something 
to support the rivet and keep it from bending -- epoxy/flox, for example, or 
epoxy/micro.  I ran experiments with aluminum tubes (cheaper than threaded 
rod ends) and this method worked just fine.  Put the stuff in and let it 
harden BEFORE you drill the rivet hole.

In my mind, the important thing is that the pin (the rivet) is there to hold 
the tension forces in the rod (resolved in shear by the rivet) and that there 
is a satisfactory shop head to keep the rivet from falling out.  If it looks 
like a banana inside, hell, I don't care.

An A&P friend once asked me "Why don't any of you homebuilders ever drill 
vent holes in your pushrods like the big boys?"  I had no answer but told him 
that I have my control pushrod stock alodined prior to cutting them to 
length.  He was unimpressed.

- Rob Wolf
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