Message-ID: <3BA0B821.9C07E33D@uslan.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 09:44:01 -0400
From: Gary Hall <gary.hall@uslan.com>
Organization: USlan Corp
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To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
CC: dg_west@bellsouth.net
Subject: Air Compressors / Air Tools
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Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com

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Doug,

I use air tools too. Mostly sandblasting and that take more 
air than a single air tool. There are options, but take out
your pocket book. The really nice part of having compressed
air is the ability to blow off your work.

Briefly, very briefly.

If you don't have 240v electricity at the hanger, you will
have to settle for 110v and a very large air receiver. The
110v compressor will have to run continuously to be able
to fill the extra large receiver. A 240v can work 
intermittently.

You can calculate what you need by looking at the tool 
requirements first. If they need 10 CFM and the compressors 
is only capable of 9 CFM, then it is a loosing battle, 
unless the receiver is large enough to have enough air for 
the job at hand. That is to retain pressure something above 
75 pounds. The best operation is going to be at 90 PSI or 
above.

A 5 horse gasoline powered is O.K. is O.K. if there is no 
electrical power, but the noise and fuel costs are annoying.

I forget the exact air volume required, but I believe it is
11 to 15 CFM to sandblast. Most tools you would buy will have 
printed on the box the requirements. So if you can sandblast
you can run tools. If you are going to operate more than one
tool, you have a new ball game.

I am sure you have seen the large upright 5 foot tanks with 
the compressor sitting on top. That would be ideal if you 
have 240v at the place of operation. Most T-hangers *DO NOT* 
have this and you will be stuck with the 110v everyone else
has to share. When someone's refrigerator kicks in while you
are operating your 15 amp compressor, the breaker kicks out.
If you don't already know where the breaker is, you will have 
to find it several times I am sure.

We have talked about getting an old propane tank to use for 
the receiver and start a low amperage 110v an hour or so 
before use to build up a head of air, apx. 115# to 125#.
This is really not a good way to do it however.

The last thing I have found through experience is to have a 
water separator *away* from the tank. The way we do it is to
hook one upright at the end of a 20 foot hose that is 
connected to the receiver. In any operation you don't want to 
clog up the tools or get dirty water on whatever you are 
working on.

The separation will work better is the air has had time to 
cool in the 20 foot or so air hose.

Ask away, I am sure I have forgotten something very 
important.

Gary Hall Long Eze, FXE
http://www.uslan.com/hinge-kit.html
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