Message-ID: <000b01c13370$c2f6ea40$f0ff8ec6@user>
From: "Robert Overmars" <rovermars@optusnet.com.au>
To: "lancair list" <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
Subject: LIV aileron balances.
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 15:33:10 +1000
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Off memory the way I determined the length of the aileron leading edge tab
was to incrementally cut it shorter until I had full up aileron travel plus
4-5 degrees extra. The limiting factor for up aileron travel being when the
leading edge tab contacts the bottom wing skin.

To determine the shape and thickness of the aileron balance weights I put
release tape up on the underside of the top skin  (then put release wax on
the tape just to be sure!) above where the aileron balance weights would be,
then put dollops of stiffish micro on the aileron leading edge tab,
carefully installed the aileron in position trailing edge up then installed
the hinge bolts.

Then I gently moved the aileron to it's full down position plus an extra 3-4
degrees. And let it stay in this position without disturbance until the
micro had set. After that I gently freed the micro from the underside of the
top skin by wriggling the aileron. Then I removed the aileron from the wing
with the micro dollops squeezed out and set hard to the exact thickness and
shape available for the lead balance weights.

To make the lead balance weights I cast the lead into an approx 1"x1"
channel and long enough to make a balance weight the length available
between the aileron hinges. I then took a small power planer (buzzer) and
gently planed the balance weight to the shape and size as determined by
measuring the micro dollops in their respective positions on the aileron
leading edge tab.

If you use a power planer to shape your balance weights wear lots of
protection, the planer will spit out little chips of high velocity lead and
if they hit unprotected skin or eyes they will do damage. (ouch!) The planer
I used had replaceable tungsten carbide knives and this use of the machine
to shape lead bars didn't seem to do them any damage.

After shaping the bars I bonded them in place with hysol/flox, (after
removing the micro dollops) then put two bid of glass over them, running the
glass up and onto the front radius of the aileron to stiffen the area where
the tab projects forward from the front radiused part of the aileron.

I installed about 100 grams extra weight of lead to balance the aileron to
allow for the weight of any micro and the paint. This worked out to be spot
on for the stbd aileron but the port aileron required a little more balance
weight after finishing and painting. In retrospect 150 grams would have been
better and more than adequate.

I hope this helps.

Roberto d'Australia.

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