Return-Path: Received: from pop3.olsusa.com ([63.150.212.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 3.5b3) with ESMTP id 845096 for rob@logan.com; Thu, 02 Aug 2001 18:34:53 -0400 Received: from mail.rkymtnhi.com ([65.204.204.202]) by pop3.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-71866U8000L800S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Thu, 2 Aug 2001 16:02:25 -0400 Received: from rkymtnhi.com (204.131.47.40) by mail.rkymtnhi.com with ESMTP (Eudora Internet Mail Server 3.1b1) for ; Thu, 2 Aug 2001 14:11:51 -0600 Message-ID: <3B69B493.A89C022F@rkymtnhi.com> Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 14:14:11 -0600 From: Builder's Bookstore MIME-Version: 1.0 To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Subject: Re: Riveting through fibreglass References: <002901c11b76$5943f000$1777e640@default> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> > > I want to rivet a strip of Al along the inside of my cowl. I will also glue > it but I feel the need to have it well secured. To this end I will use > 5/32" countersunk head rivets. I will also reinforce the inside edge of the > cowl, where the aluminum will be fastened,with two 3" widths of > bidirectional carbon fibre. This is what RV pilots do on several glass fairings, most notably the wing and empennage tips. Cut a long strip of .032 aluminum and temporarily attach it the back of the glass piece along your rivet line with c-clamps. Then drill your holes through both pieces at once, replacing the c-clamps with clecoes as you go. Then, once you've cleaned out and deburred the holes, glue it back on permanently with ProSeal. (do you guys use ProSeal; nasty stuff but works well) This way the shop heads of your rivets will be set against stiff metal rather than the glass which would work loose after time. When you are ready to rivet, countersink the glass so that the rivets are flush. There is no reason for them to be sticking out at all. I would only "thicken the fiberglass if your countersinking would be so deep as to seriously compromise the strength of the remaining glass. I don't have a number for you, but I think as a rule of thumb, I'd want at least half the thickness of the glass remaining untouched after you've countersunk. If you do a reasonable job riveting and drill a clean hole of correct size, I don't know of any need to glue in the rivet. An RV's cowls are attached to each other and to the fuselage with piano hinge. This serves the same purpose of being able to buck the rivet against metal, not glass. Those hinges are installed the same way and are typically trouble free. Andy RV-6A - flying LML Bookstore http://buildersbooks.com/lancair eCharts http://eCharts.cc >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>