FYI We have been using the vitons o rings in various applications with no problems. over 1,000 engines so far I can sell them to forum members for 32.50 + 5.00 shipping
kathy


-------Original Message-------
> From: <kenpowell@comcast.net>
> Subject: [FlyRotary] TES orings
> Sent: 20 Jul 2004 13:01:01
>
> OK, Thanks.  It's not often that it is that easy.   Ken Powell
> -------------- Original message -------------- Ken,Unless you order from McMaster Carr, size is all you need (yes, size counts... I just couldn't resist that) I'm pretty sure that you can order from Creavey by just providing dimensions. I can double-check that, but you shouldn't have any trouble ordering them using the size only. Jeff Chrysler at Creavey was very helpful, and a rotor-head. MarkAt 10:21 PM 7/19/2004 +0000, you wrote:
> Thanks Mark,I already had the sizes; I was hoping for actual part numbers. Thanks for going to the trouble to look this up though.Ken Powell
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> Ken,
> Following is part of a message I had saved concerning TES o-rings that gives the sizes for the Oil o-rings. I'm pretty sure this is the sizes I used when I ordered the o-rings for my engine, and they fit perfectly.
> Mark
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> Oil O-rings.
> I checked the installation of the oil O-rings with the new
> sizes I got from Creavey. They worked perfectly and were
> very easy to install. You will need a little O-ring lube
> and a 2 by 8 to install them. They were also easy to remove
> with no signs of distortion.
> One of the secrets is if you reuse the old oil scraper rings
> they must be spotlessly clean inside and out. Soak them
> in carb cleaner for a few days. If you use new scraper rings
> this will not be a problem of course.
> The second thing to watch out for is don't nick the
> rotor wall between the two scraper rings when you remove them.
> Very very important!!
> These can be the same or just a little more than the
> stock oil O-rings from Mazda.
> The proper oil O-ring sizes are:
> 0.093" section 4.68 inch ID
> 0.118" section 4.33 inch ID
> I can vouch for the quality of the Creavey O-rings but some
> of those water TES o-rings from Mcmaster Carr I have seen
> are not as good. This is not to say they won't work. They just
> don't look as good around the joints as Creavey O-rings.
> Viton is good only to 400 degrees F. The center of the rotor runs
> as high as 500 degrees F. I think 400 degrees F leaves's too
> little of a safety margin when 500 degrees F is available
> in TES O-rings at the same price probably.
> Hope this helps.
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> I had saved this At 06:29 PM 7/18/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>
> Ken,
> Yes, TES for oil and water. Don't have the p/n's handy. I'll have to dig them
> out of the arcives, but I'll post them when I have found them.
> Mark
> Quoting kenpowell@comcast.net:
> > Mark,
> > Do you have TES orings on the rotor oil seals? If so, where did you get them
> > and what were the part numbers?
> > Thanks, Ken Powell
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> >
> > > Dale,
> > > If I can put my 2 cents worth in here. Keep in mind that we're measuring
> > the
> > > oil temps as it leaves the cooler and is about to re-enter the engine, so
> > the
> > > oil gets considerably hotter as it goes through the galleys and is sprayed
> > into
> > > the rotors. So, 210 degrees is the starting point and the temps go up from
> >
> > > there until the oil finally reaches the cooler again. Is anyone measuring
> > the
> > > oil temp leaving the engine?
> > >
> > > Mark S.
> > > (20B with TES o-rings)
> > >
> > > Quoting Dale Smith :
> > >
> > > > Ed Anderson wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Dale , the problem with oil temps in the rotary is that the oil might
> > > > > be able to stand considerably higher temps (particularly the synthetic
> >
> > > > > oil as you point out), but the engine suffers.
> > > > >
> > > > > At least with the older and earlier 13B blocks, overheating could
> > > > > and did cause damage at a temperature range far below where you would
> > > > > have to worry about the oil decomposing. Overheating apparently caused
> >
> > > > > the seals to "chatter" against the housing as well as reportedly
> > > > > "shrinkage" of the aluminum rotor housings. The guidelines were a
> > > > > maximum of 210F after the oil cooler for the oil and 180F out of the
> > > > > engine block for the coolant. Now, we have found that at least with
> > > > > the new blocks the engines will apparently handle higher temps without
> >
> > > > > adverse effects. Apparently short excursions as high as 240F on the
> > > > > oil and 220-230F with the coolant can be tolerated without damage -
> > > > > but, the feeling is that extended operations at those temps is risking
> >
> > > > > damage.
> > > > >
> > > > > The newer blocks seem to be considerably more tolerant of somewhat
> > > > > higher temps reportedly due to changes in the castings, but I and
> > > > > others have found to our dismay that exceeding that magic number
> > > > > (whatever it may be) you do at risk. So that is why you will see more
> > > > > concern with oil and coolant temps with the ro
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