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Kelly,
Yes, it is so easy to do that I only had to take one picture.
;-) If you want to post your email address I will send it, or maybe
Marv will let me attach it to a message so the whole group can see.
Mark S.
(picture attached... I hope)
At 08:48 PM 6/16/2004 +0000, you wrote:
Mark,
Did you happen to have taken photos of the conversion
process?
Kelly Troyer
--
Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2
- -------------- Original message from Mark Steitle : --------------
- > At 11:34 AM 6/15/2004 -0700, you wrote:
- >
- > >Hi Mark;
- > > I'm looking for an alternator also. would appreciate
- > >your external alternator wiring info.
- > > Thanks John Overman
- > > Velocity RG
- > > 13B Turbo
- > > Washington State
- > John,
- > Here you go...
- >
- > =============================================
- > Bob N. strongly recommends using externally regulated
alternators only, or
- > modifying the internal regulator models so as to allow it to be
shut down
- > if necessary. (Supposedly, a voltage run-away can happen in a
few seconds.)
- > Problem is that the articles I read explaining how to convert
the
- > internally regulated alternators to external regulation didn't
work. (Did I
- > do something wrong?) I think I have worked out a simpler
solution. The
- > objective here is to isolate the field windings from the diode
bridge so
- > that the alternator can then be externally controlled.
- >
- > This is how I went about converting my alternators. First I
removed the
- > back cover, exposing the diode bridge, regulator assy. and brush
holder.
- > Then removed the regulator and brush holder and threw the
regulator assy in
- > the trash.
- >
- > Next I removed the brush holder and shaped a little brace from
- > 1/8" phenolic that will support one side of the brush
holder and isolate it
- > from the diode bridge. This piece will be about 7/8" x
1/4" with a #8 hole
- > in each end. Do not make this piece out of metal or it will
short out the
- > diode bridge. Also make up a jumper wire about three inches long
with a
- > ring terminal on each end. One end will attach to the right
terminal on the
- > brush holder and the other will attach to the alternator case
(gnd.).
- > The other terminal on the brush holder will need a spacer under
it to keep
- > everything aligned properly.
- >
- > The left brush will need to have the lead wire
- > un-soldered from the brush holder. The wire comes through the
back of the
- > brush holder. Unsolder it there and drill out the hole just a
bit to allow
- > a #20 wire with shrink tube to fit snugly through the hole.
Solder the #20
- > wire to the end of the braided wire on the brush.
- >
- > Now we're ready to reassemble the whole thing. Pass the #20 wire
through
- > the hole drilled in the brush holder and reinsert the spring and
brush.
- > Screw the brush holder back into place, with a spacer washer
under the left
- > terminal. The ground wire goes on the opposite terminal. Feed
the wire
- > soldered to the brush through a hole in the alternator cover,
with a
- > grommet to prevent chaffing. This wire will go to the
"F" te
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