Return-Path: Received: from fed1mtao04.cox.net ([68.6.19.241] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.8) with ESMTP id 3125709 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 27 Mar 2004 12:27:33 -0500 Received: from smtp.west.cox.net ([172.18.180.57]) by fed1mtao04.cox.net (InterMail vM.5.01.06.08 201-253-122-130-108-20031117) with SMTP id <20040327172733.OKMU2428.fed1mtao04.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> for ; Sat, 27 Mar 2004 12:27:33 -0500 From: To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: One step forward and .9 steps back. Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 12:27:31 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="----=____1080408451546_cP-RMr12fS" Message-Id: <20040327172733.OKMU2428.fed1mtao04.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=____1080408451546_cP-RMr12fS Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable While trying to solve the low RPM running of my engine I thought maybe my= EGR ports were not plugged well so I spent a day taking off the turbo an= d manifold, more thoroughly blocking the EGR =96 no effect. I was also a= ble to set the injector transition below idle. It runs the same on eithe= r the primay or secondary injectors. The timming is checked with a light= , and both sets of plugs seem to be working properly. Here are my current issues submitted for your perusal: Problem 1: It runs great over about 1900-2000 RPM, but slowing down thro= ugh that speed (a MAP of about 14) it begins to run rough and requires an= extra rich mixture to run at all. The MAP also goes up to about 17 or 1= 8 despite a fall in RPM. It is as if when the RPM gets low it cant suck = enough vacuum then the computer starts using the wrong part of the MAP ta= ble. I am about ready to set the idle at 2000 and say problem solved. S= ound reasonable or is something wrong? Problem 2: I was very disappointed to discover that turning off the alte= rnator makes the engine barely run, especially with any other electrical = load, even with 2 batteries connected. They are fresh healthy batteries= =2E The voltage drops from 14.2 to 11.5. If running at less than 2300 R= PM when the alternator is turned off the engine begins to surge or stops = running all together (however, running on just one set of coils improves = the problem.) If running at higher RPM the engine will just sag a little= =2E This calls in serious issues about my electrical reliability. I may deci= de to install a switch to disable one set of coils, or trading the moment= ary switch that came with the EC2 to a regular 3 position switch. Those = LS1 Coils sure do seem to need a lot of Juice. Problem 3: (THE BIG PROBLEM) My coolant doesn=92t seem to be flowing well= , despite the fact that I have no thermostat and have welded the bypass p= assage in the pump housing. I ran for almost an hour at 3000 RPM with no= apparent problem. Going up to 4000 RPM after that the coolant quickly o= verheated and boiled over. Surprisingly, the radiator was just luke-warm= =2E Now I am really worried. I remember that someone else recently was = having a similar problem but I lost track of how it was solved. I am con= sidering some possible causes. A) My AN-16 hose (engine to Rad) maybe is= just not big enough =96 unlikely because the fitting on the rad doesn=92= t even get warm. B) the Water pump sold to me by Adkins is really for a= 3rd gen and is running backward. =96 possible because the outlet side of= the rad seems to get warmer than the inlet side, but only slightly maybe= and it is closer to the turbo. C) I have a flap of rubber partially bl= ocking the outlet hose. D) The pump just refuses to properly prime itse= lf. E) Maybe the thermostat bypass passage is not properly welded closed= =2E =96 can=92t see it because of the welded plate, will have to look wit= h a dental mirror. F) ???? any input or other ideas? Dave Leonard (still rather be working on these issues than shaping that e= xit duct) ------=____1080408451546_cP-RMr12fS Content-Type: text/html; name="reply" Content-Disposition: inline; filename="reply" Message

Rusty why not just 'tee' into the gas line from the tank? If you get the tee close enought to the tank it shouldn't be to bad, it won't be gas pump fast but... should work shouldn't it?

Jarrett

 
I thought about that, but I'm reluctant to modify the new truck, particularly on the high pressure side of the fuel line.  I haven't listened to the pump, but on some vehicles, the fuel pump comes on to pre-pressurize the system at the first position of the key switch.  I thought about putting a line after the pump (which is probably in the tank), and using the vehicles pump to transfer fuel to the plane.  I'm afraid this would be pretty slow though. 
 
The current thought is a custom made aluminum tank, that's on wheels, but could be secured in the truck bed.  It would also have to have a nice ground wire attachment, to connect to the truck, or plane as needed.  The idea would be to also have a cart on wheels at the hanger, which would be the same height as the truck bed.  I could easily roll the tank from the truck bed onto the cart, then wheel the cart over to the plane.  It should be high enough to gravity feed into the plane, via a large line installed at the bottom of the tank. 
 
Still thinking about it, but it's not my biggest problem at the moment.
 
Cheers,
Rusty (finished the new W&B numbers, but I can't post the results until tonight)
 
 


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