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A lighter weight less messy method is to impregnate BID with RTV. Buy
it in caulking tubes for less cost and easier handling.
Lay out the size and shape piece you need on Saran Wrap. squeegee on
1/8" RTV and lay down the ply of BID. Add some RTV on top and cover with
another piece of Saran. Get something round and hard like a deep well
socket or rolling pin and work the RTV into the BID.
Peel off one side of the Saran and apply the RTV/BID RTV sandwich to the
desired spot. It will cure in about 24 hours IF you remove one side of the
Saran. It has to have air to cure.
Have fun. It is great material but doesn't hold well under AV-Gas
soaking.!
Terry Schubert
Central States Association
Newsletter
Editor
If you want to get creative, fiberglass mat saturated with RTV
makes quite a flexible - in all aspects of the term - sealant. I've used it on
oddball shaped gaps, others use it successfully as baffling directly on their
Lycoming cylinders. You can put some duct tape where on the cowling inlet
where you don't want the stuff to stick and perhaps build it up stiff enough
to stay put or set up a removable frame adhering to the glass-RTV that
clips/bolts etc to the cowl.
Marko
Greetings,
I did the first test
fit of my cooling ducts, and there's hope for them. I still haven't
decided exactly what I'm going to do to seal the front of the duct to the
cowl inlet. There's only about 1/8" gap at most, and I'm thinking that
it will probably work fine without any additional seal, however, I'll
probably try to put some sort of foam strip to get some sort of a
seal.
I looked through all
the pics I have, and can't find a picture that shows the front of anyone's
duct. How are you guys sealing these to the cowls?
Pictures???
Cheers,
Rusty
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