Return-Path: Received: from m12.lax.untd.com ([64.136.30.75] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.8) with SMTP id 3121042 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 25 Mar 2004 10:18:41 -0500 Received: from cookie.untd.com by cookie.untd.com for <"MJX/NhAS4UNn7QTm17yF8Bnj3t04vtzr90m46ODb2zVcCJqkSev+sg==">; Thu, 25 Mar 2004 07:18:38 PST Received: (from jschuber@juno.com) by m12.lax.untd.com (jqueuemail) id JRKYN9K3; Thu, 25 Mar 2004 07:18:38 PST To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 09:04:44 -0500 Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: cooling duct seal? Message-ID: <20040325.101711.-651233.11.jschuber@juno.com> X-Mailer: Juno 5.0.33 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=--__JNP_000_0d68.45f1.103a X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 8-6,8-9,13-14,17-18,20-27,29,36-39,41-48,54-55,58-60,61-32767 From: Terry L Schubert This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ----__JNP_000_0d68.45f1.103a Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A lighter weight less messy method is to impregnate BID with RTV. Buy it in caulking tubes for less cost and easier handling. Lay out the size and shape piece you need on Saran Wrap. squeegee on 1/8" RTV and lay down the ply of BID. Add some RTV on top and cover with another piece of Saran. Get something round and hard like a deep well socket or rolling pin and work the RTV into the BID. Peel off one side of the Saran and apply the RTV/BID RTV sandwich to the desired spot. It will cure in about 24 hours IF you remove one side of the Saran. It has to have air to cure. Have fun. It is great material but doesn't hold well under AV-Gas soaking.! Terry Schubert Central States Association Newsletter Editor On Wed, 24 Mar 2004 20:03:39 -0800 "Marko Bewersdorff" writes: If you want to get creative, fiberglass mat saturated with RTV makes quite a flexible - in all aspects of the term - sealant. I've used it on oddball shaped gaps, others use it successfully as baffling directly on their Lycoming cylinders. You can put some duct tape where on the cowling inlet where you don't want the stuff to stick and perhaps build it up stiff enough to stay put or set up a removable frame adhering to the glass-RTV that clips/bolts etc to the cowl. Marko -----Original Message----- From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On Behalf Of Russell Duffy Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 7:11 PM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] cooling duct seal? Greetings, I did the first test fit of my cooling ducts, and there's hope for them. I still haven't decided exactly what I'm going to do to seal the front of the duct to the cowl inlet. There's only about 1/8" gap at most, and I'm thinking that it will probably work fine without any additional seal, however, I'll probably try to put some sort of foam strip to get some sort of a seal. I looked through all the pics I have, and can't find a picture that shows the front of anyone's duct. How are you guys sealing these to the cowls? Pictures??? Cheers, Rusty ----__JNP_000_0d68.45f1.103a Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
A lighter weight less messy method is to impregnate BID with RTV. = ; Buy=20 it in caulking tubes for less cost and easier handling.
 
Lay out the size and shape piece you need on Saran Wrap.  = squeegee on=20 1/8" RTV and lay down the ply of BID.  Add some RTV on top and cover = with=20 another piece of Saran.  Get something round and hard like a deep well= =20 socket or rolling pin and work the RTV into the BID.
 
Peel off one side of the Saran and apply the RTV/BID RTV sandwich to = the=20 desired spot.  It will cure in about 24 hours IF you remove one side = of the=20 Saran.  It has to have air to cure.
 
Have fun.  It is great material but doesn't hold well under AV-= Gas=20 soaking.!

Terry Schubert
Central States Association
Newsletter=20 Editor
 
 
On Wed, 24 Mar 2004 20:03:39 -0800 "Marko Bewersdorff" <fly@bewersdorff.com> writes:
If  you want to get creative, fiberglass mat saturated with= RTV=20 makes quite a flexible - in all aspects of the term - sealant. I've used = it on=20 oddball shaped gaps, others use it successfully as baffling directly on = their=20 Lycoming cylinders. You can put some duct tape where on the cowling inlet= =20 where you don't want the stuff to stick and perhaps build it up stiff = enough=20 to stay put or set up a removable frame adhering to the glass-RTV = that=20 clips/bolts etc to the cowl.
 
Marko
-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in = aircraft=20 [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On Behalf Of Russell=20 Duffy
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 7:11 PM
To: = Rotary=20 motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] cooling duct=20 seal?

Greetings,
 
I did the = first test=20 fit of my cooling ducts, and there's hope for them.  I still haven= 't=20 decided exactly what I'm going to do to seal the front of the duct to = the=20 cowl inlet.  There's only about 1/8" gap at most, and I'm thinking= that=20 it will probably work fine without any additional seal, however, I'll=20 probably try to put some sort of foam strip to get some sort of a=20 seal. 
 
I looked = through all=20 the pics I have, and can't find a picture that shows the front of = anyone's=20 duct.  How are you guys sealing these to the cowls? =20 Pictures???
 
Cheers,
Rusty
 
 
 
 
 
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