It's been a log time since I
built/modified my 13B back in 1999, so someone please remind me.
I thought the pellet was in the end of
the e-shaft with a spring pushing on it and one replaced the
spring with a spacer? You're saying it's accessible from the side
of the e-shaft with the oil pan removed?
I understand the e-shaft jets may be
accessible from the bottom with the oil pan removed.
Hey there Andrew.
Thanks mate, good thinking.
I found this schematic.
If I tap in and check the pressure leaving the engine
(pump-relief valve) it would give me an idea if I have a problem
there which is my hunch.
The Schematic suggests that I should see about 150 psi at
2800 rpm. Though I read a forum where Lynn Hanover said the
lowest pressure pump bypasses were set at 110 psi.
My cooler is a 44 row Mocal which I’m thinking will present
lower restriction than the Renesis single cooler setup.
I do filter all oil after the cooler as opposed to the OEM
setup which only filters oil going into the engine bearings and
eccentric.
I use a race filter so hopefully not to higher restriction
but maybe higher due to the above mentioned.
I did do the thermal pellet delete as you did but I didn’t
mod the eccentric jets.
I’m wondering if I might be able to remove the pan and then
the front cover while in the aircraft. It will be tight, but
prefer to not disassemble th prop, gearbox and many other
systems.
With the pan off I can check a number of key things.
1. The thermal pellet delete. Via the hole in the eccentric
shaft. Should be blocked by the aluminium piece Tracy provided.
2. The front relief valve spring and cracking pressure using
a spare front cover Ive got.
3. The Rear relief valve cracking pressure.
4. Maybe even the o-ring seal
I know I need to be very careful of not messing up the
components on the front of the eccentric. I do need to
understand this properly before remove the front cover.
My money is still on the gasket/o-rng seal between the front
iron and cover being damaged at first start up.
Thanks mate.
Steve
Hi Steve. I think we got same engine as you. Been
awhile since I operated it so memory may be wrong. But
pretty sure it sits on 80psi.
I did the thermal pellet delete mod
during the original build. it was a part that Tracey
supplied with all the other bits. You may be lucky
enough to have enough room to do this mod while
engine is mounted in the plane. Some people modified
the eshaft jets to increase oil to rotors, this I
assume would lower oil pressure also. I did not do
this.
For series 1 Renesis only.
I would first check pressure at front
cover oil port, relief in there is set to something
like 125psi to protect the pump from blocked cooler,
if you plumbed a gauge and a needle valve in
series(or, if your game, clamp the hose) you could
gradually restrict oil flow until relief opens. This
confirms that everything at front cover end is ok. A
difference in pressure at front cover & rear
iron sensor indicates pressure drop through cooler,
hoses & filter(if other than OEM). This does not
matter too much unless your seeing front cover
relief pressure at lower than your operating rpm.
Next place to look requires engine
teardown.
Andrew
Hi
again Finn
A qualification. Mazda used a lower oil pressure
for the Renesis Series 1 than previous engine
series, and then went back to higher pressure for
the series 2 Renesis.
My understanding is that the thermal pellet in the
front end of the Eccentric Shaft, when cold is
open allowing the oil to dump into the pan rather
than when warmed up it closes and the oil in the
eccentric now squirts into the rotors cooling
them.
I believe this is about emission control at
startup and that for racing and our use, better to
delete this thermostat and block permanently this
path meaning oil is always cooling the rotors.
If the thermal pellet fails, it does so open and
so stopping the rotor oil cooling. Not a good
thing and can cook the oil o-rings on the rotor
sides.
Open to being corrected.
Steve
> On 1 Nov 2024, at 10:50 pm, Stephen Izett stephen.izett@gmail.com
<flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
wrote:
>
> Thanks Finn.
>
> I should have mentioned the first thing I did
was put a gauge to check the EFIS reported oil
pressure. They were both reading within 2psi so I
have taken it to be accurate to within about 2
psi.
> Thanks for the data.
>
> Steve
>
>
>> On 1 Nov 2024, at 9:23 pm, Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net
<flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
wrote:
>>
>> Startup oil pressure depends a bit on
OAT.
>> Recent example: OAT 82, oil pressure 80 @
2,700 RPM dropping as low as 50 @ 2,300 RPM after
80 seconds.
>> 67 @ 5,900 RPM during takeoff climb.
(Over propped.)
>> Cruising along 68 psi @ 5,200 RPM, 62
OAT, 4,000'
>>
>> Sampling some logs I found 74 psi @ 6,500
RPM.
>>
>> I would say the relief valve is somewhere
between 80 and 90 psi. Normally runs at 60 - 70
psi.
>>
>> Factory (unopened) Renesis 4 -port, I
guess series 1. I don't know what happens when you
replace the pellet with something else.
>>
>> I too had heard that the Renesis ran at
higher oil pressures and foolishly ordered and
installed a 150 psi oil pressure sensor.
>>
>> I guess 50 psi sounds a bit low at higher
RPMs. Check the sensor for accuracy.
>>
>> Finn
>>
>>
>>
>> On 11/1/2024 8:17 AM, Stephen Izett stephen.izett@gmail.com
wrote:
>>> Hi People.
>>>
>>> Could I pick your brains.
>>>
>>> I’ve been flying a Series 1 Renesis 4
port in the Glasair for some years now.
>>> I have always thought the oil
pressure was a bit low but I’ve now got some
concerns and would appreciate any wisdom.
>>>
>>> I’ve read that the Series 1 Renesis
has lower Oil pressure than the previous rotaries
and then the Series 2 had the pressure increased.
>>> Some have changed the rear iron
relief valve for an older series with a high
bypass pressure and then shimmed the front cover
relief valve to enable a higher pressure.
>>>
>>> Ours has always had a cold start
pressure (measured at the back iron oil input) of
around 64 psi that drops to around 50 psi when
warm.
>>> What I hadn’t realised was that it
sounds like normal behaviour is for oil pressure
to rise with RPM to a significantly higher value
at say 7000rpm. Higher in earlier and Series 2
Renesis with the Series 1 at a lower peak
pressure.
>>> Our engine doesn’t rise above that
initial cold start pressure of about 64 psi and
then not above 50 psi even at 7000rpm.
>>>
>>> If this is correct then it must have
oil bypassing back to the pan somewhere. A rotary
expert here says it sound like an engine with worn
bearings. But it’s always been like this when I
purchased it as one of the Mazda test engines and
looked like new,
>>> Points that it could bypass back to
the pan include:
>>> 1. O-ring / gasket between front iron
oil passage to front cover.
>>> 2. Front Iron relief valve.
>>> 3. Rear Iron relief valve.
>>> 4. Bearings worn.
>>> 5. E-Shalf thermal delete leak. (I
replaced the thermal pellet with Tracy’s Solid
Aluminium units)
>>>
>>> I recall that on its first ever start
we had a leak in the intake manifold and it burst
into life at hight rpm and blew the oil filter
seal out.
>>> This leaves me wondering about that
front iron to front plate seal. Is this a gasket
or o-ring in the Renesis Series 1?
>>>
>>> Is there any Renesis Series 1 engines
out there and can I get your numbers and
experience?
>>> I’m wondering is 50 psi at 7200
dangerous for the bearings, rotors?
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Steve
>>> Perth Western Australia
>>>
>>> Glasair Super II RG Genesis 4 port
RD1C EC/EM
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> .
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
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>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
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