From: "Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Griffin Radiator Welding
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
References: <list-2295701@lancaironline.net>
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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2023 08:43:22 -0400
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Yes, Lynn suggested wet towels or even submerging it in water.

Another thing not very feasible with a commercial welder, but probably 
good with your buddy, is short weld times. Weld a bit and let it cool 
down. Repeat.

I don't know at what temps the brazing (?) that holds the rad together 
start melting, but the idea would be to not let the non-welded parts 
heat up to that.

I used a commercial welder for my rads and he managed to damage some 
fins which I had to fix with JB-weld. Unless the welder specializes in 
very thin alum welding there is a substantial learning curve. Coming 
from welding 1/8" alum to welding thin rads is a whole new ball game, I 
think. Maybe let him practice on soda cans first if new to this?

Finn

On 8/15/2023 6:31 PM, Doug Lomheim rv9flyer13b@gmail.com wrote:
> I am now at the point where I’m ready to take my Griffin radiator over 
> to a TIG welding buddy to add some NPT “bungs” and close up some of 
> the original holes left when I removed the 1.5 inch hose fittings.  I 
> remember reading a decade ago that when one welds on an existing 
> radiator it’s a good idea to put wet towels on it, to dissipate heat, 
> etc.
>
> Is that a required practice, and are there any other techniques / 
> procedures we need employ to maximize the chances for a good outcome?
>
> thanks.
>
> Doug


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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Yes, Lynn suggested wet towels or even
      submerging it in water.<br>
      <br>
      Another thing not very feasible with a commercial welder, but
      probably good with your buddy, is short weld times. Weld a bit and
      let it cool down. Repeat.<br>
      <br>
      I don't know at what temps the brazing (?) that holds the rad
      together start melting, but the idea would be to not let the
      non-welded parts heat up to that.<br>
      <br>
      I used a commercial welder for my rads and he managed to damage
      some fins which I had to fix with JB-weld. Unless the welder
      specializes in very thin alum welding there is a substantial
      learning curve. Coming from welding 1/8" alum to welding thin rads
      is a whole new ball game, I think. Maybe let him practice on soda
      cans first if new to this? <br>
      <br>
      Finn<br>
      <br>
      On 8/15/2023 6:31 PM, Doug Lomheim <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:rv9flyer13b@gmail.com">rv9flyer13b@gmail.com</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:list-2295701@lancaironline.net">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <font class="" size="4">I am now at the point where I’m ready to
        take my Griffin radiator over to a TIG welding buddy to add some
        NPT “bungs” and close up some of the original holes left when I
        removed the 1.5 inch hose fittings.  I remember reading a decade
        ago that when one welds on an existing radiator it’s a good idea
        to put wet towels on it, to dissipate heat, etc.  </font>
      <div class=""><font class="" size="4"><br class="">
        </font></div>
      <div class=""><font class="" size="4">Is that a required practice,
          and are there any other techniques / procedures we need employ
          to maximize the chances for a good outcome?</font></div>
      <div class=""><font class="" size="4"><br class="">
        </font></div>
      <div class=""><font class="" size="4">thanks.</font></div>
      <div class=""><font class="" size="4"><br class="">
        </font></div>
      <div class=""><font class="" size="4">Doug   </font></div>
    </blockquote>
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