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Sat, 22 May 2021 01:27:08 +0000 Received: by kubenode566.mail-prod1.omega.bf1.yahoo.com (VZM Hermes SMTP Server) with ESMTPA ID 208723870840c8c91a7d20fd805b5af3; Sat, 22 May 2021 01:27:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Temperature sensors To: Rotary motors in aircraft References: Message-ID: <726abf64-e03c-ac21-2245-ee3ffc8f5a64@verizon.net> Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 21:27:01 -0400 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:52.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/52.9.1 MIME-Version: 1.0 In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Content-Language: en-US X-Antivirus: Avast (VPS 210521-12, 05/21/2021), Outbound message X-Antivirus-Status: Clean X-Mailer: WebService/1.1.18368 mail.backend.jedi.jws.acl:role.jedi.acl.token.atz.jws.hermes.aol Content-Length: 3279 The EM3 likes grounded thermocouple wires, however not really sure it's required. They go into balanced inputs. Actually there are four 8x1 multiplexers in the EM3. They have clamping diodes to protect inputs. Finn On 5/21/2021 4:36 PM, Charlie England ceengland7@gmail.com wrote: > Don't forget to check on whether the EM3 wants grounded or ungrounded > probes. I forget which is which, but one type of 'meter' will accept > either style; the other won't. > > On 5/21/2021 2:43 PM, Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net wrote: >> When I made my own engine monitor for my RV-3 back in 1999 I found it >> easiest to use sensors that output linear 0 to 5V. >> >> So when I got an EM3 from Tracy, I modified it to use such sensors >> (LM35, TMP35, TC03 and similar ICs). My reasoning was that they were >> spec'd to accuracy of a couple of degrees over temperature range of >> interest. >> >> I wondered why the EM3 had 8 EGT and 8 CHT inputs. (Actually in the >> EM3 the 8 CHT inputs also go into the same MAX6675 chip designed for >> Type K thermocouple (EGT) wire.) >> >> After several failures and weird readings of LM35's I'm now beginning >> to see the wisdom of Tracy's approach. And the LM35CAZ is not cheap >> either. >> >> If you buy a roll of type K thermocouple wire (less than $1/foot), >> even if it's off a bit compared to an ideal Type K wire,  all >> measurement points should be accurate relative to each other. And you >> just need to calibrate one input for absolute accuracy and use those >> calibration factors for all the other inputs. >> >> I've spent a lot of time trying to figure out why the coolant output >> from my right radiator is so much lower than the left's. I even made >> 3/4" cu tubing inserts with 1/4" wells in them for the ICs to make >> sure I was measuring actual fluid temps. >> >> After swapping the hoses to the radiators,  the coolant out (out from >> engine) sensor now inexplicably reads lower by more than 20 deg F  >> than the in-engine sensor. Thought it might have been air in coolant >> near sensor, but lower readings remain after multiple engine runs, >> >> For the CHT inputs, I had bought Type J thermocouple wire, reasoning >> that it'd be more sensitive than Type K. Well, 50uV/C is really not >> much better than 41uV/C, and being fed into a chip that expects Type >> K really makes it much harder to re-correct (the MAX6675 chip >> corrects for ambient temp for Type K not J). >> >> So, I think I'll rip out all sensors, order a roll of Type J wire, >> make and install new sensors: 1/8NPT plugs drilled for 5/32" brass >> tubing with wire twisted and soldered to the pinched-shut brass >> tubing. (My old sensors were 1/8NPT plugs drilled for 1/4" cu tubing >> that the LM35's could fit in.) >> >> Quite a bit of work, but hopefully will pay off in terms of reliable >> temperature readings. Without those I don't think I can optimize the >> cooling system. >> >> Hope that others may learn from my mistakes. >> >> Finn >> >> >> --- >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >> https://www.avast.com/antivirus >> >> >> -- >> Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> Archive and UnSub: >> http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html > >