From: "lehanover lehanover@aol.com" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 03:04:46 +0000 (UTC)
Reply-To: lehanover <lehanover@aol.com>
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
Message-ID: <416190958.1395014.1614222286901@mail.yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Radiator - A/C Evaporator core welding
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=C2=A0=C2=A0In a message dated 2/22/2021 6:26:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, =
flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:=C2=A0
https://www.alumiweld.com/is one brand, but most local welding shops will c=
arry some version of the stuff. I used it to braze my intake tubes to=C2=A0=
 1/4" plate, but I have no idea whether it will stand up to the intake puls=
es & vibration with the engine running. I can tell you that the stuff isn't=
 the magically easy to use stickum that it seems to be, when you're watchin=
g the carnival barker at SNF. The stuff I used was marginal on thick stuff =
with a propane torch (might not be a factor with the heat exchanger). You'l=
l almost certainly need a wood handled stainless steel brush to free the co=
rrosion on the base metal while the torch is applied to the molten brazing =
material.=C2=A0Have you thought about hitting Barry up to take a look at it=
? ;-)=C2=A0Charlie
On Mon, Feb 22, 2021 at 3:04 PM Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net <flyrot=
ary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
Some time ago Ed Anderson recommended some (rather expensive) DIY alum=20
welding or brazing rods that he had good success with.

I really need to add some alum tubing to the ends of the evaporator core=20
tanks (and close off the existing tubes going into the tank sides).

I'm worried that If I try to do that myself that I will disturb (weaken)=20
the existing core brazing/welds.

I assume that if I take them to a (Tig?) welder he'll be able to do it=20
so heat won't spread (or maybe submerged in water)?

Any advice?

BTW, I'm now unable to find the exact same cores on eBay and would=20
rather avoid having to re-do the fiberglass inlet ducts. So I'll have to=20
take the plane out of service to do it and to not mess up the cores.

Finn


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<div>
<div class=3D"userEdit" style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;=
 font-size: 10pt; color: #000000;">
<div><span style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 1=
0pt; color: #000000;">&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 1=
0pt; color: #000000;">&nbsp;</span></div>
</div>
In a message dated 2/22/2021 6:26:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@la=
ncaironline.net writes:
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"quotedReply">
<blockquote style=3D"padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; border-left: blue=
 2px solid;">
<div id=3D"yiv3716412891">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"yiv3716412891gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;"><a hr=
ef=3D"https://www.alumiweld.com/" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopene=
r noreferrer">https://www.alumiweld.com/</a></div>
<div class=3D"yiv3716412891gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">is on=
e brand, but most local welding shops will carry some version of the stuff.=
 I used it to braze my intake tubes to&nbsp; 1/4" plate, but I have no idea=
 whether it will stand up to the intake pulses &amp; vibration with the eng=
ine running. I can tell you that the stuff isn't the magically easy to use =
stickum that it seems to be, when you're watching the carnival barker at SN=
F. The stuff I used was marginal on thick stuff with a propane torch (might=
 not be a factor with the heat exchanger). You'll almost certainly need a w=
ood handled stainless steel brush to free the corrosion on the base metal w=
hile the torch is applied to the molten brazing material.</div>
<div class=3D"yiv3716412891gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">&nbsp=
;</div>
<div class=3D"yiv3716412891gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">Have =
you thought about hitting Barry up to take a look at it? ;-)</div>
<div class=3D"yiv3716412891gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">&nbsp=
;</div>
<div class=3D"yiv3716412891gmail_default" style=3D"font-size: small;">Charl=
ie</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"yiv3716412891gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"yiv3716412891gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Feb 22, 2021 at =
3:04 PM Finn Lassen <a href=3D"mailto:finn.lassen@verizon.net" target=3D"_b=
lank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">finn.lassen@verizon.net</a> &lt;=
<a href=3D"mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nof=
ollow noopener noreferrer">flyrotary@lancaironline.net</a>&gt; wrote:</div>
<blockquote class=3D"yiv3716412891gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0px 0px 0px=
 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid #cccccc; padding-left: 1ex;">Some time ago E=
d Anderson recommended some (rather expensive) DIY alum <br>welding or braz=
ing rods that he had good success with.<br><br>I really need to add some al=
um tubing to the ends of the evaporator core <br>tanks (and close off the e=
xisting tubes going into the tank sides).<br><br>I'm worried that If I try =
to do that myself that I will disturb (weaken) <br>the existing core brazin=
g/welds.<br><br>I assume that if I take them to a (Tig?) welder he'll be ab=
le to do it <br>so heat won't spread (or maybe submerged in water)?<br><br>=
Any advice?<br><br>BTW, I'm now unable to find the exact same cores on eBay=
 and would <br>rather avoid having to re-do the fiberglass inlet ducts. So =
I'll have to <br>take the plane out of service to do it and to not mess up =
the cores.<br><br>Finn<br><br><br>---<br>This email has been checked for vi=
ruses by Avast antivirus software.<br><a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/anti=
virus" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">https://www.a=
vast.com/antivirus</a><br><br><br>--<br>Homepage:&nbsp; <a href=3D"http://w=
ww.flyrotary.com/" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">h=
ttp://www.flyrotary.com/</a><br>Archive and UnSub:&nbsp; &nbsp;<a href=3D"h=
ttp://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html" target=3D"_blank=
" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lis=
ts/flyrotary/List.html</a></blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
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