That is correct. Fear not. Even 1/2 ounce is far more than a stock engine gets at full tilt. Otherwise the sump would be empty in two weeks. Most of the free engines gifted to me had been run dry of crank case oil.

Still I got good irons and cranks an rotors out of most of them.........LEH

In a message dated 6/29/2020 5:12:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

Lynn,

I think that I am getting it.now . What you are saying is to use 1/2 oz/gal  poor quality crank case oil per gallon as a pre-mix and not use the standard pre-mix oil at all during the break-in. (am I close?)

Thanks for bearing with me.

Rich

In a message dated 6/29/2020 1:53:23 PM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

Not a full one ounce per gallon....One half ounce per gallon....of crank case oil. The same poor quality oil as you will have in the sump. You need the side seals, the corner seals and the ends of the apex seals to become friendly with the irons.  The break in period is very short. Two to six hours over several days. Never over 180 degrees on coolant. At 2,000 to 2,500 RPM. This is not a heavy load. A great time to see if any leaks have developed or the exhaust is melting something.  A fresh engine will not be fouled with carbon in this amount of time.  If the engine is coming apart for annual or any other reason, do it for one housing but not the other.

Remember what you see. If you use a synthetic case oil and a racing synthetic top oil you will not need this at all.

The water idea is for an engine that is about to come apart for overhaul. Or a street car that is nearly junk and running poorly. Disconnect the reactor before you do this. Every bit of carbon that was in the engine will soon be in the reactor.....and ruin the reactor.  This is not my idea. I saw this happen to a Chevy van that had a dead cylinder and I was shocked. Then "Hemi" Ranken said just wait until we take a head off.  So I did and then I saw  150,000 mile cylinder head and pistons looking as though new. Not one speck of carbon.  I cannot stop doing it. It is so much more pleasant to work on a clean engine.

Look at the filter paper.....Go to town with new oil and two cycle in the premix...LEH

In a message dated 6/29/2020 11:31:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

Head still breaking-in

Len, just to clarify,

Do you mean to put an additional 1/2 oz per gal conventional oil in the already added premix (about 1.5 oz total pre and conventional oil?).

Additionally in a newly overhauled engine do you still recommend the water technique to get rid of the carbon created by the break-in period of the oil mixture.

Additionally additionally is standard oil miscible with both pre-mix and fuel?

Additionally additionally  and as well---Do you think that the water treatment should be done periodically and if  so how often?  When I rebuilt my motor after only about 14K the rotors had significant carbon (which was a bit#h to remove.) perhaps to do the water as a prophylactic treatment.

Thanks again again, again

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: lehanover lehanover@aol.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sun, Jun 28, 2020 12:49 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis break-in

Cheap conventional oil in the premix at about 1/2 ounce per gallon as well as in the crank case. The round rings are oil scrapers and are supposed to keep crank case oil out of the combustion chamber, same as a piston engine. Do not tell anybody about this.......with a warm engine at 2,000 RPM...slowly add 1 cup of water to the intake over several minutes. It will remove all of the carbon from the rotor face and free up sticking apex seals in most cases.  Works on piston engines as well....like MAGIC. Saves hours of scraping. On street cars it will plug up the reactor.....with carbon crap...........

You didn't hear it here..............Lynn E Hanover

In a message dated 6/28/2020 12:47:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

On reading my last post, I just realized that the side seals (circular) are indeed lubricated by crank case oil  so the first part of my question was self-answered.

That still leaves the pre-mix question.

Sorry for the multiple stream-of-consciousness questions.

Rich

In a message dated 6/28/2020 11:43:51 AM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

Rethinking my last post,

I just realized that the typical rotary, in automotive use uses crankcase oil for seal lubrication.

In my assembly, I will be using pre-mix in the fuel. the crankcase oil will  never see the chambers (if I am lucky).

Any advice from you or other on this list what to use for break-in pre-mix?

Since the bearings, bushing and eccentric shaft have been relatively untouched, (14K on engine since rebuild) it seems as synthetic in the case would be OK however, the rotors seem to have different needs on break-in

Rich

In a message dated 6/27/2020 12:08:01 PM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

I used a Texaco fleet oil for two hours at 2000 RPM. Then dump the oil and check the filter paper for metal.

Then 40 or 50 weight Redline racing oil. Never over 180 degrees on the coolant.  Then a lap at part throttle then good for 9,600 RPM at full throttle. No oil related failures in 35 years of racing.

You could do 4 hours at 2000 RPM no load or part load on fleet oil. Should be plenty. Never over 180 degrees.

It worked for me...............Lynn E. Hanover

In a message dated 6/27/2020 10:00:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

So I Googled break-in procedures for the RX8.

Less than 4000RPM for the first 600-1000 miles.

I don't see that happening. I don't think I can keep the RV-4 level at

less than 4,500 RPM, depending on prop.

And I sure want full power at takeoff and climb to pattern altitude.

I guess I could run it on the ground for 10 hours at varying RPMs below

4000, but really?

What did you do with a new Renesis?

Finn

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