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In a message dated 6/29/2020 12:54:24 PM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
Correct. Any un-burned oil in the fuel ends up in the sump.
Bobby
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 12:34 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis break-in
Great info about titrating the pre-mix amount.
I assume that what you mean by "making sump oil refers to the oil level in the sump increasing with use. Am I correct?
What I was referring to in my last post was the break-in process and the oil to be used as a pre-mix.
Rich,
If you are not using sump oil injection then I doubt you will ever see any carbon build up. We run our engines at high rpm. You start two stroke at a mixture around 1oz per gallon. Then reduce that amount until you stop making sump oil. I was still make sump oil at .8oz per gallon but didn’t reduce any further. With the constant speed prop and super charger I could run lean mixtures and 30-32” MP for hours at a time. I wanted extra oil in fuel. A little water through the intake will not hurt. I ran water injection for takeoff above 35” MP during the Texas summer. 100cc per minute. A freshly overhauled engine should have zero carbon buildup.
Bobby
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 10:31 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis break-in
Head still breaking-in
Do you mean to put an additional 1/2 oz per gal conventional oil in the already added premix (about 1.5 oz total pre and conventional oil?).
Additionally in a newly overhauled engine do you still recommend the water technique to get rid of the carbon created by the break-in period of the oil mixture.
Additionally additionally is standard oil miscible with both pre-mix and fuel?
Additionally additionally and as well---Do you think that the water treatment should be done periodically and if so how often? When I rebuilt my motor after only about 14K the rotors had significant carbon (which was a bit#h to remove.) perhaps to do the water as a prophylactic treatment.
Thanks again again, again
-----Original Message-----
From: lehanover lehanover@aol.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sun, Jun 28, 2020 12:49 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis break-in
Cheap conventional oil in the premix at about 1/2 ounce per gallon as well as in the crank case. The round rings are oil scrapers and are supposed to keep crank case oil out of the combustion chamber, same as a piston engine. Do not tell anybody about this.......with a warm engine at 2,000 RPM...slowly add 1 cup of water to the intake over several minutes. It will remove all of the carbon from the rotor face and free up sticking apex seals in most cases. Works on piston engines as well....like MAGIC. Saves hours of scraping. On street cars it will plug up the reactor.....with carbon crap...........
You didn't hear it here..............Lynn E Hanover
In a message dated 6/28/2020 12:47:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
On reading my last post, I just realized that the side seals (circular) are indeed lubricated by crank case oil so the first part of my question was self-answered.
That still leaves the pre-mix question.
Sorry for the multiple stream-of-consciousness questions.
In a message dated 6/28/2020 11:43:51 AM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
I just realized that the typical rotary, in automotive use uses crankcase oil for seal lubrication.
In my assembly, I will be using pre-mix in the fuel. the crankcase oil will never see the chambers (if I am lucky).
Any advice from you or other on this list what to use for break-in pre-mix?
Since the bearings, bushing and eccentric shaft have been relatively untouched, (14K on engine since rebuild) it seems as synthetic in the case would be OK however, the rotors seem to have different needs on break-in
In a message dated 6/27/2020 12:08:01 PM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
I used a Texaco fleet oil for two hours at 2000 RPM. Then dump the oil and check the filter paper for metal.
Then 40 or 50 weight Redline racing oil. Never over 180 degrees on the coolant. Then a lap at part throttle then good for 9,600 RPM at full throttle. No oil related failures in 35 years of racing.
You could do 4 hours at 2000 RPM no load or part load on fleet oil. Should be plenty. Never over 180 degrees.
It worked for me...............Lynn E. Hanover
In a message dated 6/27/2020 10:00:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
So I Googled break-in procedures for the RX8.
Less than 4000RPM for the first 600-1000 miles.
I don't see that happening. I don't think I can keep the RV-4 level at
less than 4,500 RPM, depending on prop.
And I sure want full power at takeoff and climb to pattern altitude.
I guess I could run it on the ground for 10 hours at varying RPMs below
What did you do with a new Renesis?
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