X-Junk-Score: 0 [] X-Cloudmark-Score: 0 [] X-Cloudmark-Analysis: v=2.3 cv=RZTu9Glv c=1 sm=1 tr=0 a=vdDitJH7Tu9LrZUc9pktxw==:117 a=R_GH2UhQhlgA:10 a=x7bEGLp0ZPQA:10 a=e8BSqymJ620A:10 a=nTHF0DUjJn0A:10 a=DK2GG6i_IL4A:10 a=3oc9M9_CAAAA:8 a=Ia-xEzejAAAA:8 a=_6GpL_ENAAAA:8 a=7g1VtSJxAAAA:8 a=FJZYUZUPCzK0C-wLM1QA:9 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10 a=Qa1je4BO31QA:10 a=gvSQh4r-fQ0A:10 a=d46lUuF_AAAA:8 a=RKDAzaNha6_oTubfMOsA:9 a=1quQ0yQKWyY1xiQQ:21 a=Urk15JJjZg1Xo0ryW_k8:22 a=grOzbf7U_OpcSX4AJOnl:22 a=6lK6DICRFWFJG_1PXtoD:22 From: " argoldman@aol.com" Received: from sonic309-20.consmr.mail.gq1.yahoo.com ([98.137.65.146] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.2.14) with ESMTPS id 431379 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 29 Jun 2020 11:31:16 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=98.137.65.146; envelope-from=argoldman@aol.com DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=aol.com; s=a2048; t=1593444658; bh=+lBDwBfS7XjhQwEVbwrOR6i37j+bCCmUakGyR//HTk4=; h=Date:From:Reply-To:To:In-Reply-To:References:Subject:From:Subject; b=k/TcYlsuQJKMkSiLQn88H2OICxvf5i4/foM8fRLFDadu38Jdve0qKFcMY2iBBp5LlNIH0VQbU7HH8SBRGdQIihTpqJUjESCLAkhDAk6zYnlHL7bFE0ms/3COWmnASS4Rc80NAGwx1rHJE3Y60PBswzC09tdliNOZG7LTzPXl+1dj/5wGYq1wzD4CslhlfGWrj+rghVDA5gfeaD72ZxnRiOIl00/NQoLv8/KGG3FIQDV08dwZCPoRBFU905u2AmbSo+7bnNL7GbQ18IX0szahQGRHy8H2uLwccFOXSJ9a5HFnRUSHFTkcPaKQZnOpbeGVnhz4AE+14+ccqNS3uaIGzQ== X-YMail-OSG: XlkcfxIVM1n0Mg01FI4BbbOClu09OXzoJrojVosVlInAv4.COS5NeY1Po_ymMLu OC8bMrDuHZssTRvRj.X.bPSc1JPYemWbmU.Pk8_ChJZQWpC8SeLc8CE1akeDcBRq5nOBDzw58exE Mme8Dr7O5c6_nMZXOFOS7cEcd4j_fawulbRsg4xP8f12q2aSdKZLQ1VoX9oQjY1EGdt22IA6yqFY kJ3fAXZmm6Pl0owK.YYbfwxcYsCe02KppPHAnAx8Uz9MQfDhB4guJvbGYqdQVBc_38rHNFQob1gU 9.lteCh6fIaZ4RXxhvlxWfaY34gMbqFLtcjgpRKSLSQCAcx0lEudf4dVT9uGgmqg9tXvEoChwWy5 LNdr6IS2Xjnq2OB9WJmpbkwPyMvGJfbBIImCjulK7GUyYo7L7K0roSva_zJ0lqVUYaBsJp6ibeQD L163NEIerLAsDh2MsiqwnJBD3dBduaAHWUqwrdWMSY.vKbhLqwAY29ShVndB16clljkt3x34m_Qx dFmz53IWkl4HNea70d1Gw_v0oexkBmZyLnTDj0zvmpsmzsXKyTZ0HJfU3_r.bNFwgNOSSsaswXXK NuBchkIUEVE9cnxwgByUSeh.MTaRYnBbPWy5pOWjXXRCxFnM0dw84G5hKLnaPae9rNEuEC_6hyLM U8hYvRwx_OgeActuvqNqSdSekxAl40wv4N.EWPYp.3SgWGY7M0YDHli_izchXGT1idJJnI3qqAWL RIT4d2.YJTaapemfLzUulbs0PMkNFwqfokPevcI0vPPDuoszQWG3eWp9RDixRB.yPAN4L89g8jZ5 .imaRNHU1JzNVm03_S6s7IHihjAnjY4.9ahmW2ZJeCYNYkYa4jehDjBi2f428XKFCOVfMkhH3lLk b94FTqSXtzyOdwm2.0QnWGSlwWW92h0xcqownL4GCfTQp_Ls9qCfIRaeHA34TKLqoiGFLyQ_qjfS wMIb34_dTZgMVmAueS86cd3Q4pybVrgc0ImfJh4lvlsKONYJLX5.p2UzV7iTkENzGlpJcpsk68od DNVfOlZK6wcJdUuQRoAoOWaW3FGZ52HWGkZEpK5Le8dIXCDZ0YDPLRHvUKUZRYfTXhaujFtJMnFN 047mEy4RjY4ll16UpHPJm4j5EuWcAOSCTBCaxgPEaDvEwZfEW89B0T6mkajv7qPK5341R_vLrkzL hFWBftTfLMOHMhwn4vjILicRrQKPiLpluY9Cx_QnlYKr1rGIjKsViBD_o.u2ZCEQxuTusrPLThIj 03WkJJ.E11aBgTM5ytIm2vsPIeBH_nHHxB7fHQe0- Received: from sonic.gate.mail.ne1.yahoo.com by sonic309.consmr.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with HTTP; Mon, 29 Jun 2020 15:30:58 +0000 Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 15:30:54 +0000 (UTC) Reply-To: argoldman@aol.com To: "flyrotary@lancaironline.net" Message-ID: <653580066.714249.1593444654113@mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis break-in MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_Part_714248_466147801.1593444654110" X-Mailer: WebService/1.1.16138 aolwebmail Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:77.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/77.0 Content-Length: 14238 ------=_Part_714248_466147801.1593444654110 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Head still breaking-in Len, just to clarify, Do you mean to put an additional 1/2 oz per gal conventional oil in the alr= eady added premix (about 1.5 oz total pre and conventional oil?). Additionally in a newly overhauled engine do you still recommend the water = technique to get rid of the carbon created by the break-in period of the oi= l mixture. Additionally additionally is standard oil miscible with both pre-mix and fu= el? Additionally additionally=C2=A0 and as well---Do you think that the water t= reatment should be done periodically and if=C2=A0 so how often?=C2=A0 When = I rebuilt my motor after only about 14K the rotors had significant carbon (= which was a bit#h to remove.) perhaps to do the water as a prophylactic tre= atment. Thanks again again, againRich =20 =20 =20 -----Original Message----- From: lehanover lehanover@aol.com To: Rotary motors in aircraft Sent: Sun, Jun 28, 2020 12:49 pm Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis break-in Cheap conventional oil in the premix at about 1/2 ounce per gallon as well = as in the crank case. The round rings are oil scrapers and are supposed to = keep crank case oil out of the combustion chamber, same as a piston engine.= Do not tell anybody about this.......with a warm engine at 2,000 RPM...slo= wly add 1 cup of water to the intake over several minutes. It will remove a= ll of the carbon from the rotor face and free up sticking apex seals in mos= t cases.=C2=A0 Works on piston engines as well....like MAGIC. Saves hours o= f scraping. On street cars it will plug up the reactor.....with carbon crap= ........... You didn't hear it here..............Lynn E Hanover In a message dated 6/28/2020 12:47:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@l= ancaironline.net writes: On reading my last post, I just realized that the side seals (circular) are= indeed lubricated by crank case oil=C2=A0 so the first part of my question= was self-answered. That still leaves the pre-mix question. Sorry for the multiple stream-of-consciousness questions.Rich In a message dated 6/28/2020 11:43:51 AM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@l= ancaironline.net writes: Rethinking my last post, I just realized that the typical rotary, in automotive use uses crankcase = oil for seal lubrication.In my assembly, I will be using pre-mix in the fue= l. the crankcase oil will=C2=A0 never see the chambers (if I am lucky). Any advice from you or other on this list what to use for break-in pre-mix?= Since the bearings, bushing and eccentric shaft have been relatively untouc= hed, (14K on engine since rebuild) it seems as synthetic in the case would = be OK however, the rotors seem to have different needs on break-in Rich In a message dated 6/27/2020 12:08:01 PM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@l= ancaironline.net writes: I used a Texaco fleet oil for two hours at 2000 RPM. Then dump the oil and = check the filter paper for metal.Then 40 or 50 weight Redline racing oil. N= ever over 180 degrees on the coolant.=C2=A0 Then a lap at part throttle the= n good for 9,600 RPM at full throttle. No oil related failures in 35 years = of racing. You could do 4 hours at 2000 RPM no load or part load on fleet oil. Should = be plenty. Never over 180 degrees.It worked for me...............Lynn E. Ha= nover In a message dated 6/27/2020 10:00:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@l= ancaironline.net writes: So I Googled break-in procedures for the RX8. Less than 4000RPM for the first 600-1000 miles. I don't see that happening. I don't think I can keep the RV-4 level atless = than 4,500 RPM, depending on prop. And I sure want full power at takeoff and climb to pattern altitude. I guess I could run it on the ground for 10 hours at varying RPMs below4000= , but really? What did you do with a new Renesis? Finn ---This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.http= s://www.avast.com/antivirus --Homepage:=C2=A0 http://www.flyrotary.com/Archive and UnSub:=C2=A0 http://= mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html ------=_Part_714248_466147801.1593444654110 Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Head still breaking-inUnamused

Len, just to clarify,

Do you mean to put an additional 1/2 oz per gal conventional oil in the already added premix (about 1.5 oz total pre and conventional oil?).

Additionally in a newly overhauled engine do you still recommend the water technique to get rid of the carbon created by the break-in period of the oil mixture.

Additionally additionally is standard oil miscible with both pre-mix and fuel?

Additionally additionally  and as well---Do you think that the water treatment should be done periodically and if  so how often?  When I rebuilt my motor after only about 14K the rotors had significant carbon (which was a bit#h to remove.) perhaps to do the water as a prophylactic treatment.

Thanks again again, again
Rich



-----Original Message-----
From: lehanover lehanover@aol.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sun, Jun 28, 2020 12:49 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis break-in

Cheap conventional oil in the premix at about 1/2 ounce per gallon as well as in the crank case. The round rings are oil scrapers and are supposed to keep crank case oil out of the combustion chamber, same as a piston engine. Do not tell anybody about this.......with a warm engine at 2,000 RPM...slowly add 1 cup of water to the intake over several minutes. It will remove all of the carbon from the rotor face and free up sticking apex seals in most cases.  Works on piston engines as well....like MAGIC. Saves hours of scraping. On street cars it will plug up the reactor.....with carbon crap...........

You didn't hear it here..............Lynn E Hanover

In a message dated 6/28/2020 12:47:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

On reading my last post, I just realized that the side seals (circular) are indeed lubricated by crank case oil  so the first part of my question was self-answered.

That still leaves the pre-mix question.

Sorry for the multiple stream-of-consciousness questions.
Rich

In a message dated 6/28/2020 11:43:51 AM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:


Rethinking my last post,

I just realized that the typical rotary, in automotive use uses crankcase oil for seal lubrication.
In my assembly, I will be using pre-mix in the fuel. the crankcase oil will  never see the chambers (if I am lucky).

Any advice from you or other on this list what to use for break-in pre-mix?
Since the bearings, bushing and eccentric shaft have been relatively untouched, (14K on engine since rebuild) it seems as synthetic in the case would be OK however, the rotors seem to have different needs on break-in

Rich


In a message dated 6/27/2020 12:08:01 PM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

I used a Texaco fleet oil for two hours at 2000 RPM. Then dump the oil and check the filter paper for metal.
Then 40 or 50 weight Redline racing oil. Never over 180 degrees on the coolant.  Then a lap at part throttle then good for 9,600 RPM at full throttle. No oil related failures in 35 years of racing.

You could do 4 hours at 2000 RPM no load or part load on fleet oil. Should be plenty. Never over 180 degrees.
It worked for me...............Lynn E. Hanover


In a message dated 6/27/2020 10:00:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

So I Googled break-in procedures for the RX8.

Less than 4000RPM for the first 600-1000 miles.

I don't see that happening. I don't think I can keep the RV-4 level at
less than 4,500 RPM, depending on prop.

And I sure want full power at takeoff and climb to pattern altitude.

I guess I could run it on the ground for 10 hours at varying RPMs below
4000, but really?

What did you do with a new Renesis?

Finn


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