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Hi Lynn
Having the throttle body horizontal and below the engine, can I use that cleaning trick by using a pray bottle to get the (1 cup of water / >2 minutes) in?
Steve Izett
> On 29 Jun 2020, at 1:49 am, lehanover lehanover@aol.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
>
> Cheap conventional oil in the premix at about 1/2 ounce per gallon as well as in the crank case. The round rings are oil scrapers and are supposed to keep crank case oil out of the combustion chamber, same as a piston engine. Do not tell anybody about this.......with a warm engine at 2,000 RPM...slowly add 1 cup of water to the intake over several minutes. It will remove all of the carbon from the rotor face and free up sticking apex seals in most cases. Works on piston engines as well....like MAGIC. Saves hours of scraping. On street cars it will plug up the reactor.....with carbon crap...........
>
> You didn't hear it here..............Lynn E Hanover
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2020 12:47:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
>
> On reading my last post, I just realized that the side seals (circular) are indeed lubricated by crank case oil so the first part of my question was self-answered.
>
> That still leaves the pre-mix question.
>
> Sorry for the multiple stream-of-consciousness questions.
> Rich
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2020 11:43:51 AM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
>
>
> Rethinking my last post,
>
> I just realized that the typical rotary, in automotive use uses crankcase oil for seal lubrication.
> In my assembly, I will be using pre-mix in the fuel. the crankcase oil will never see the chambers (if I am lucky).
>
> Any advice from you or other on this list what to use for break-in pre-mix?
> Since the bearings, bushing and eccentric shaft have been relatively untouched, (14K on engine since rebuild) it seems as synthetic in the case would be OK however, the rotors seem to have different needs on break-in
>
> Rich
>
>
> In a message dated 6/27/2020 12:08:01 PM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
>
> I used a Texaco fleet oil for two hours at 2000 RPM. Then dump the oil and check the filter paper for metal.
> Then 40 or 50 weight Redline racing oil. Never over 180 degrees on the coolant. Then a lap at part throttle then good for 9,600 RPM at full throttle. No oil related failures in 35 years of racing.
>
> You could do 4 hours at 2000 RPM no load or part load on fleet oil. Should be plenty. Never over 180 degrees.
> It worked for me...............Lynn E. Hanover
>
>
> In a message dated 6/27/2020 10:00:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
>
> So I Googled break-in procedures for the RX8.
>
> Less than 4000RPM for the first 600-1000 miles.
>
> I don't see that happening. I don't think I can keep the RV-4 level at
> less than 4,500 RPM, depending on prop.
>
> And I sure want full power at takeoff and climb to pattern altitude.
>
> I guess I could run it on the ground for 10 hours at varying RPMs below
> 4000, but really?
>
> What did you do with a new Renesis?
>
> Finn
>
>
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