flyrotary@lancaironline.net Mailing List Archive

That would have been a straight 30 weight oil. Any straight weight conventional oil would work over a synthetic but many conventional oils are really quite good and you end up with a long beak in period.

Do a hot leak down or a compression check after the first run up to 180 degrees. Compare that to the engine after 2 hours. A tired used engine with new seals will improve more than a new well built engine, but both will improve.

My piston engines had zero hot leak down after break in. Rotaries a few percent. Rotaries have 8 or 9 end gaps depending on the style of apex seal. So are a bit poor at low speed sealing.

For leak down testing....stand clear of the prop. Set the crank on the TDC mark on your starter ring gear tooth for TDC. The prop can move very quickly if off the mark by a tiny amount.

If you are sure you want to do this..................Lynn E. Hanover

In a message dated 6/28/2020 12:17:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

thanks again Lynn

You mentioned Texaco fleet oil..what weight and specific type of oil, if you remember ie AD straight etc.-- I can't seem to find it on the net.

When I break it in, I don't want to screw it up.

Rich

In a message dated 6/27/2020 9:52:21 PM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

The point of the Texaco oil when I did it was that it had the poorest film strength and the most compressibility of the available oils. Harris Woods used Texaco oil in a small diameter tube as the spring in the landing gear

of the original woody pusher. So, the breaking is to allow the pieces that are a bit proud of what they should be can get warn down a bit and thus improve compression some. However, most synthetics have very high film strength and near zero compressibility. So, the break in period may outlast you. And the engine will finally seal up for the guy that buys the plane off of your widow. In the short term there will be extra blow by and higher crankcase pressure. It means a bit of oil in the catch tank after every flight. There should be little to none in the tank, depending on how clever your breathing system is.

So do not use a synthetic lube of any kind in the assembly of a rotary unless you are using the seals over again, then by all means use synthetics everywhere. . New seals means no synthetics until after break in.

I have no personal contact with Mobile one, but early in its production there were some problems. Now it is good enough for Corvettes. What pour weight to use I do not know. I used 40 and 50 weight Redline because it pours like lighter fluid. Not a single oil related problem.

Or, I could be completely wrong..............Lynn E. Hanover

In a message dated 6/27/2020 7:23:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

What is the current feeling on mobile 1 and if positive what weight and should it be used for break-in?

Rich

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 27, 2020, at 12:07 PM, lehanover lehanover@aol.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

I used a Texaco fleet oil for two hours at 2000 RPM. Then dump the oil and check the filter paper for metal.

Then 40 or 50 weight Redline racing oil. Never over 180 degrees on the coolant. Then a lap at part throttle then good for 9,600 RPM at full throttle. No oil related failures in 35 years of racing.

You could do 4 hours at 2000 RPM no load or part load on fleet oil. Should be plenty. Never over 180 degrees.

It worked for me...............Lynn E. Hanover

In a message dated 6/27/2020 10:00:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

So I Googled break-in procedures for the RX8.

Less than 4000RPM for the first 600-1000 miles.

I don't see that happening. I don't think I can keep the RV-4 level at

less than 4,500 RPM, depending on prop.

And I sure want full power at takeoff and climb to pattern altitude.

I guess I could run it on the ground for 10 hours at varying RPMs below

4000, but really?

What did you do with a new Renesis?

Finn

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