Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #6490
From: Alex Madsen <madsena@rose-hulman.edu>
Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: EMU in the wild
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 23:18:13 -0500
To: 'Rotary motors in aircraft' <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Message

Technically, putting TC into a terminal block of a dissimilar (different) metal should not matter. This is because junction of the wire coming in should be at the same temperature as the junction of the wire going out.   Therefore the voltages created at the input and output of the terminal block should be the seamed and cancel each othere out. However if you decide to connect the thermal couple at a terminal block and use copper (or othere type) wire on the othere terminal the voltages will not cancel and you temperature will be off. BAD!!!!. As long as all terminal block connects are the SAME temperature and the CORRECT TC WIRE TYPE it should work. I would test this before a wired a whole airplane.

 

Alex Madsen

Jr. Mechanical Engineer

Rose-Hulman Institute of Technology

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of William
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 10:38 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: EMU in the wild

 

There exist terminal blocks for thermocouples that are fabricated with the metals used in the thermocouple.

 

Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser # 4045

 

while there should be no issue in using this for the P2 connector it isn't really all that necessary as those points are for fixed sensors that won't be moved. P1 is where it would be really handy, as some of those 8 T/C's will be moved to various locations for various tests and running T/C extension wire back to the EMU will be somewhat of a pain.  

 

Hi Todd,

 

I concur with everything you said.  I also wanted the terminal block for the T/C inputs, but realized in talking to Tracy that it would probably introduce too much error. 

 

What I did instead, was solder 4- 8 foot long sections of T/C wire from the P1 connector on the bench.  I used the smallest, stranded wire I could get, but it still sucked.  The ends of these pairs are twisted tightly, and soldered to make a probe (Tracy's idea, and it works).  These are long enough to reach anything I might need to test, and coil up into about a 5" diameter coil when not in use. 

Subscribe (FEED) Subscribe (DIGEST) Subscribe (INDEX) Unsubscribe Mail to Listmaster