From: "David Leonard" <Daveleonard@cox.net>
To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: Now my Mazda goes Hmmmmm :-)  !!!
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 05:26:50 -0800
Message-ID: <000001c409c8$02448290$b6e46f44@Leonards>
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Thanks Finn and Ed,

So thaaats what those little washer were for!  Luckily, I kept them but
you are right that they are probably the cause of the leak because I
didn't have a gasket (notice that they are about as thick as a gasket).
I was just using a layer of permatex aviation gasket maker - the brown
stuff that is pretty thin.  

Although I only have about 1/4 inch clearance between the firewall and
the water pump pulley, Finn was right.  I was able to coax some regular
gasket maker into the space and make a very sloppy but effective seal.
While at it I was able to seal my pin-hole leaks with JB Weld.  The oil
leaks fixed easily (uh, it really helped to tighten the fittings with a
wrench). 

I also owe an apology to Atkins Rotary who did install my CAS correctly.
The errors are all mine.  Turns out that somewhere along the line I lost
track of which signal went to which coil to which spark plug.  Out of
desperation I swapped the leads between the front and rear rotors and
WOW!  Sure does run MUCH better with the proper spark plug wires going
to the proper rotors.  It is really really amazing that I was able to
run the thing at all! (not to mention the fact that I didn't install the
engine backward or something the that)

Today I get to slide in the nav/com and go taxi around! It sure is going
to be tough to go back the sanding the cowl(and worse yet, the job). :-)

David Leonard
The Rotary Roster:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html

> Dave,  are you sure you can't remove the water pump/housing without
> removing the engine?
> 
> You just need to pull the water pump about 1.5" back to get it out of
> the housing.
> Unless you have forgotten the two washers that Ed mentioned, you
> probably don't need to pull the pump housing more than 1/2" away from
> the engine block in order to clean the edges and apply some gasket
> sealant (999 or gray Permatex). If you absolutely need to remove the
> pump housing, as possible solution would be to remove all nuts and
> bolts, and then somehow screw out the two long studs. Might be able to
> get in there with vice grips of such. Or perhaps put two nuts on the
end
> and use those to turn the studs out of the engine block.
> 
> Finn