Return-Path: Received: from out012.verizon.net ([206.46.170.137] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.8) with ESMTP id 3076822 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 13 Mar 2004 00:29:15 -0500 Received: from netzero.net ([4.12.145.173]) by out012.verizon.net (InterMail vM.5.01.06.06 201-253-122-130-106-20030910) with ESMTP id <20040313052914.KZHY18295.out012.verizon.net@netzero.net> for ; Fri, 12 Mar 2004 23:29:14 -0600 Message-ID: <40529C2A.4040002@netzero.net> Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 00:29:14 -0500 From: Finn Lassen User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.1; en-US; rv:1.4) Gecko/20030624 Netscape/7.1 (ax; PROMO) X-Accept-Language: en-us, en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Now my Mazda goes Hmmmmm :-) !!! References: In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Authentication-Info: Submitted using SMTP AUTH at out012.verizon.net from [4.12.145.173] at Fri, 12 Mar 2004 23:29:14 -0600 daveleonard@cox.net wrote: >The leak is commig from where the water pump seaals with the >engine block... That is going to be a real hassle to fix as to get the >water pump off I have to remove the entire engine. > Dave, are you sure you can't remove the water pump/housing without removing the engine? You just need to pull the water pump about 1.5" back to get it out of the housing. Unless you have forgotten the two washers that Ed mentioned, you probably don't need to pull the pump housing more than 1/2" away from the engine block in order to clean the edges and apply some gasket sealant (999 or gray Permatex). If you absolutely need to remove the pump housing, as possible solution would be to remove all nuts and bolts, and then somehow screw out the two long studs. Might be able to get in there with vice grips of such. Or perhaps put two nuts on the end and use those to turn the studs out of the engine block. Finn