Charlie is correct. Cut the header tube a few inches longer then you think you need and inspect. You should be able to insert your tube between the outside SS shell and inner inconel tube.  Trim to fit and lap joint weld to the outer shell. 

Bobby 

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On Jan 3, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Charlie England ceengland7@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

You know they are 3 layers thick, right? I've cut one up, and modified another that's attached to my engine now, though it' hasn't run yet. I suspect that the inner liner is inconel, but I tig welded some stainless to it using stainless rod. The flange is cast iron, with the inner core probably inconel, 'something' over that, and the outside seems to be stainless. 

Dennis Haverlah has been flying one for a long time; perhaps he'll chime in with what he used to modify his.

If I were starting today, I'd probably just use the flange and make up a header out of thick wall stainless tubing bends (meaning architectural guard rails). That's what Ed Anderson did a couple of decades ago on a much hotter running 13B, and it survived fine. Right, Ed? 

That manifold is pretty heavy. I used it because Dennis' plane was so quiet you could hear the prop. Then I heard Sam Hodges' plane that has a welded header, and it's not much louder than Dennis' plane (both are Renesis engines).

Charlie 

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On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 4:19 PM Neil Unger 12348ung@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

Andrew,

                    I spent a lot of time chasing temps, even after supposedly calibrating with a thermometer.  IN the end I found a bloke who simply took the number off the sender and put the relative values into the computer.  They nearly all read differently.  The difference in my two oil temps is confusing, as in theory should read almost the same.  I no longer care but remain confused which seems normal for me.

Does anyone know what type of cast is the stock renesis exhaust manifold made from?  I normally use Procus welding rods for dissimilar metals, which to date seem to stick even a broken marriage together.  A delight to weld with as they flow so smoothly .  Not cheap but the job even makes my welding look good.

Neil.

On 1/4/2019 1:05 AM, Andrew Martin andrew@martinag.com.au wrote:

Hi Neil, I dont remember criticising, but maybe I did. Anyways your setup works, thats all that matters.

Keep us updated with the turbo install. Tis fun to tinker, but more so to fly.

Pulled my oil filter & adapter plate off this arvo, realised the temp sensor that is reading high is not completely in the oil flow, just the very tip is, with rest of sensor in contact with adapter plate, so maybe I’m sensing the rear iron temp rather than oil temp. would explain a lot, and be a bugger, as I may not have had oil cooling issues at all for all this time.

Andrew

On Thu, 3 Jan 2019 at 2:19 pm, Neil Unger 12348ung@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

Andrew,

                    I think it was you who condemned my remote filter as
undersized, anyway someone did.  I have a 3/4 inch inlet size and out
but sized down to 1/2 inch lines to and from.  Oil pressure at cold is
120 psi and runs at 85 when hot or slightly less.  I have one temp
sensor in the back iron where Mazda put theirs and another one in the
reduction drive.  Temp in the reduction drive is always higher than the
one in the rear iron as I suspect water is aiding that reading.  Get up
to 95 degrees in the reduction drive and only 85 to 90 in the rear iron.

Have  just a pressure reading post filter.    It seems happy, so I am
just flying.

Have a stock exhaust manifold coming to see what I can do to reverse the
direction and then fit a turbo.  Yeah I should be shot I know, but just
cannot stop fiddling.  Will fit to another engine on the floor and then
hopefully the change over will not ground me for long.  I have an
operation on my foot in Mid March which means I am grounded for 6 weeks,
so me and my crutches should get the change over done in that time.

Best for new year!  Neil


On 1/3/2019 3:19 PM, Andrew Martin andrew@martinag.com.au wrote:
> Really think I’m starting to win. But very slowly, which is
> frustrating. Seems my initial overheating issues were a combination of
> many things, not each that bad in installation but added together!!!!
> and each masks the others.
>
> Mocal oil cooler definately works, and judicious application of duct
> tape over all the now unnecessary holes in the cowl to improve airflow
> seems to have done the job, and can now be done proper again with grp.
>
> But. Seems my oil filter is next on the list to address. I used the
> stock mazda renesis oil filter. It actually looks too small to use (
> which I now believe it is)  but I stuck with it because I assumed
> mazda did the calculations ( No, the accountants probably took over).
> Mazda’s filter setup only filters oil going to the oil galleries, most
> oil is not filtered and just returns to sump via the OCV. Since
> fitting new oil cooler I now also have 2 temp sensors, both after the
> oil cooler but original 1 is also after the filter. Both are on rear iron.
>
> On latest flight, oil going to OCV max’d at 176f  while filtered oil
> going to oil gallery/rotors kept climbing to 216f where I aborted the
> climb. Couldve kept going as temp started to behave as I reduced
> climb, but I really want to fix these little nuances that restrict
> performance. Maybe something unknown is affecting the sensor,
> otherwise it has to be the filter.
>
> So, 2 choices, either a better filter that just filters gallery/rotor
> oil, or a remote filter that filters all oil.
> If using remote filters, what size/part number do you use? Has anyone
> measured presure drop/ restriction through filters?
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
>

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