|
|
You know they are 3 layers thick, right? I've cut one up, and modified another that's attached to my engine now, though it' hasn't run yet. I suspect that the inner liner is inconel, but I tig welded some stainless to it using stainless rod. The flange is cast iron, with the inner core probably inconel, 'something' over that, and the outside seems to be stainless.
Dennis Haverlah has been flying one for a long time; perhaps he'll chime in with what he used to modify his.
If I were starting today, I'd probably just use the flange and make up a header out of thick wall stainless tubing bends (meaning architectural guard rails). That's what Ed Anderson did a couple of decades ago on a much hotter running 13B, and it survived fine. Right, Ed?
That manifold is pretty heavy. I used it because Dennis' plane was so quiet you could hear the prop. Then I heard Sam Hodges' plane that has a welded header, and it's not much louder than Dennis' plane (both are Renesis engines).
Charlie
Andrew,
I spent a lot of time chasing temps, even
after supposedly calibrating with a thermometer. IN the end I
found a bloke who simply took the number off the sender and put
the relative values into the computer. They nearly all read
differently. The difference in my two oil temps is confusing, as
in theory should read almost the same. I no longer care but
remain confused which seems normal for me.
Does anyone know what type of cast is the stock renesis exhaust
manifold made from? I normally use Procus welding rods for
dissimilar metals, which to date seem to stick even a broken
marriage together. A delight to weld with as they flow so
smoothly . Not cheap but the job even makes my welding look good.
Neil.
Hi Neil, I dont remember criticising, but maybe
I did. Anyways your setup works, thats all that matters.
Keep us updated with the turbo install. Tis fun to
tinker, but more so to fly.
Pulled my oil filter & adapter plate off this
arvo, realised the temp sensor that is reading high is not
completely in the oil flow, just the very tip is, with rest of
sensor in contact with adapter plate, so maybe I’m sensing the
rear iron temp rather than oil temp. would explain a lot, and be
a bugger, as I may not have had oil cooling issues at all for
all this time.
Andrew
Andrew,
I think it was you who condemned my
remote filter as
undersized, anyway someone did. I have a 3/4 inch inlet
size and out
but sized down to 1/2 inch lines to and from. Oil pressure
at cold is
120 psi and runs at 85 when hot or slightly less. I have
one temp
sensor in the back iron where Mazda put theirs and another
one in the
reduction drive. Temp in the reduction drive is always
higher than the
one in the rear iron as I suspect water is aiding that
reading. Get up
to 95 degrees in the reduction drive and only 85 to 90 in
the rear iron.
Have just a pressure reading post filter. It seems
happy, so I am
just flying.
Have a stock exhaust manifold coming to see what I can do to
reverse the
direction and then fit a turbo. Yeah I should be shot I
know, but just
cannot stop fiddling. Will fit to another engine on the
floor and then
hopefully the change over will not ground me for long. I
have an
operation on my foot in Mid March which means I am grounded
for 6 weeks,
so me and my crutches should get the change over done in
that time.
Best for new year! Neil
On 1/3/2019 3:19 PM, Andrew Martin andrew@martinag.com.au wrote:
> Really think I’m starting to win. But very slowly,
which is
> frustrating. Seems my initial overheating issues were a
combination of
> many things, not each that bad in installation but
added together!!!!
> and each masks the others.
>
> Mocal oil cooler definately works, and judicious
application of duct
> tape over all the now unnecessary holes in the cowl to
improve airflow
> seems to have done the job, and can now be done proper
again with grp.
>
> But. Seems my oil filter is next on the list to
address. I used the
> stock mazda renesis oil filter. It actually looks too
small to use (
> which I now believe it is) but I stuck with it because
I assumed
> mazda did the calculations ( No, the accountants
probably took over).
> Mazda’s filter setup only filters oil going to the oil
galleries, most
> oil is not filtered and just returns to sump via the
OCV. Since
> fitting new oil cooler I now also have 2 temp sensors,
both after the
> oil cooler but original 1 is also after the filter.
Both are on rear iron.
>
> On latest flight, oil going to OCV max’d at 176f while
filtered oil
> going to oil gallery/rotors kept climbing to 216f where
I aborted the
> climb. Couldve kept going as temp started to behave as
I reduced
> climb, but I really want to fix these little nuances
that restrict
> performance. Maybe something unknown is affecting the
sensor,
> otherwise it has to be the filter.
>
> So, 2 choices, either a better filter that just filters
gallery/rotor
> oil, or a remote filter that filters all oil.
> If using remote filters, what size/part number do you
use? Has anyone
> measured presure drop/ restriction through filters?
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
>
--
Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
--
Regards
Andrew Martin
Martin Ag
|
|