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Steve, I hesitate to say much so that it does not become common knowledge what an idiot I am! A few rules I remember --- The speed of air through a radiator is around 35MPH for max cooling. Therefore with calculations on a postage stamp You may have 200 Sq inches rad surface which means that you will need something like 70 square inches inlet area. We had enormous grief with the Eggenfellner subarus with a rad stuck against the cheek cowl inlets even though the figures did in theory add up. In practice they could have not been worse. Engine heads 2 inches behind, too little length between inlet and rad face etc. Perhaps a manometer will at least give you the pressure gradient across the rad and the amount of air. It is relatively cheap to manufacture which is my preference, and will tell you just what air is actually going through the rad. You seem to be testing with little air going through at Idle / taxi. I have approx 100 sq inch inlet to both oil and water. Seems that depending on design as little as 80 sq inches is enough, but I hate hot engines. Good luck! Neil;.
On 12/29/2017 8:53 AM, Stephen Izett stephen.izett@gmail.com wrote:
Rich
I forgot to mention. We kept the original manifold because it provided - temp sender locations, heater return and return from the air capture pressure tank/cap.
Some others have created a new in/out with flange.
Cheers
Steve
On 28 Dec 2017, at 9:25 pm, Stephen Izett stephen.izett@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
Hi there Rich
We cut down the original Renesis manifold with the exiting water going straight out with a screw on filler cap above.
We had to do this as the engine is pretty close to the cowl top in the Glasair.
As far as a header tank above. Our rad is to the side and a little lower than the in/out manifold so its always going to be lifting the water a few inches.
Do you mean to provide some room to collect any air above the inlet?
Cheers
Steve
On 27 Dec 2017, at 11:12 pm, Subscriber argoldman@aol.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
What about the concept of removing the thermostat housing completely and directly connecting the hoses to an adapter bolting on to the engine where the housing was. Additionally keeping the intake side always fed from a header tank above?
Rich
In a message dated 12/27/2017 8:43:17 AM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
Thanks Bobby
I read a post from way back from Lynn E. Hanover whom I understood was well worth listening too.
He didn’t mention any need for the hole between inlet and outlet.
He did however talk about making sure the outlet was restricted compared to the inlet to prevent pump cavitation.
He mentioned that he uses a 5/8” restriction, however that all systems are different and depend upon rad resistance and plumbing etc.
I’ll experiment a little and see what happens.
Cheers
Steve
On 27 Dec 2017, at 9:44 pm, Bobby J. Hughes bhughes@qnsi.net <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
Steve,
My thermostat hole is plugged and have a #30 hole drilled through the plug.
Bobby
Sent from my iPad
On Dec 26, 2017, at 9:18 PM, Stephen Izett stephen.izett@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
Merry Christmas to all
I’m still troubleshooting our cooling system.
Renesis 4 port in Glasair Super II RG
We removed the thermostat, and plugged the whole between the in and out circuit with a threaded plug.
I think I read someone saying there should be a hole in that plug, which I take it was to let air our of the inlet side of the pump.
On a picture of the front housing I think I can see a hole in the top of the pump impeller housing that might perform this function.
Can anyone comment?
Thanks
Steve Izett
Perth Western Australia
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