From: <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Full-name: ARGOLDMAN
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Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 17:03:20 -0400
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: more redrive questions
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
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Thanks, Charlie. 
 
My plan is to T the two together and enter the engine (I will look at your  
place when I am at the hanger tomorrow.) My thought is to use a branch "T"  
screwed into the engine, one leg to an AN fitting and the other to contain  
a magnetic drain plug to catch and find any metal that may be being made by 
the  gear box. If the OMP pad is a good idea I will mill/drill an aluminum  
pad with a 1/4" npt in one side and a female thread for the mag plug  
(probably to use a crush washer rather than NPT to make it easier to inspect.)  
on the other side.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I will look.
 
Rich
 
 
In a message dated 3/23/2017 3:49:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

edit; see below

On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 3:39 PM, Charlie England 
<_flyrotary@lancaironline.net_ (mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net) > wrote:



On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 2:45 PM, ARGOLDMAN <_flyrotary@lancaironline.net_ 
(mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net) > wrote:



Greetings,
I would first like to thank all for the great advice.
 
I have a few final questions
 
1. In plumbing the oil return, Tracy relates that using the OMP pad  is 
OK.. Is it. It seems to be somewhat above the output fitting on the  RD1-c. Is 
that OK or should I drain it lower if possible?
 
2. The Renesis has a really small oil pan. Would it be advisable to  
increase the size? If this is used, what oil level should be used?
 
3. When the RD is disassembled for inspection, the 1/4" drilling and  stud 
to pry it off of the plate makes sense. However the spacer and  gearbox 
itself are mated-- how do you separate these without damaging  them. I think 
they are sealed together by RTV.
 
Thanks again.. I hope in the future to be contributing on the other  side 
of questions.
 
Rich
 



Not flying yet, but here  goes:


The easiest place for oil return is the base of the  flywheel end rotor 
housing, ~2" up from the pan mating line, **on the spark  plug side of the 
engine**.  Very short run and just slightly downhill.  I drilled & tapped 1/4" 
NPT & screwed in an adapter to AN-6 flair. I  drilled & tapped two places, & 
plugged one. I T'd the two drains as  others have done, but I've got an easy 
plan B if the T'd line doesn't drain  fast enough.


Pan size? I've got the stock one on now. If you go  bigger, don't forget to 
move the pickup down to the new bottom. 


3. When you do get 'em apart, there are sealants that  don't harden...


Charlie








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<DIV>Thanks, Charlie. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>My plan is to T the two together and enter the engine (I will look at=
 your=20
place when I am at the hanger tomorrow.) My thought is to use a branch "T"=
=20
screwed into the engine, one leg to an AN fitting&nbsp;and the other to co=
ntain=20
a magnetic drain plug to catch and find any metal that may be being made=
 by the=20
gear box. If the OMP pad is a good idea I will&nbsp;mill/drill an aluminum=
=20
&nbsp;pad with a 1/4" npt in one side and a female thread for the mag plug=
=20
(probably to use a crush washer rather than NPT to make it easier to inspe=
ct.)=20
on the other side.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks for the suggestion. I will look.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rich</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 3/23/2017 3:49:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,=20
flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"=
><FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3D=
Arial>
  <DIV dir=3Dltr>edit; see below<BR>
  <DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR>
  <DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 3:39 PM, Charlie Englan=
d <SPAN=20
  dir=3Dltr>&lt;<A title=3Dmailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net=20
  href=3D"mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net"=20
  target=3D_blank>flyrotary@lancaironline.net</A>&gt;</SPAN> wrote:<BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc=
 1px solid">
    <DIV dir=3Dltr><BR>
    <DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR>
    <DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 2:45 PM, ARGOLDMAN <S=
PAN=20
    dir=3Dltr>&lt;<A title=3Dmailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net=20
    href=3D"mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net"=20
    target=3D_blank>flyrotary@lancaironline.net</A>&gt;</SPAN> wrote:<BR>
    <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
    style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #c=
cc 1px solid"><U></U>
      <DIV id=3Dm_4771345437411826080m_-6284785191130631024role_body=20
      style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #000000"><FONT=
=20
      id=3Dm_4771345437411826080m_-6284785191130631024role_document color=
=3D#000000=20
      size=3D2 face=3DArial>
      <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
      <DIV>Greetings,</DIV>
      <DIV>I would first like to thank all for the great advice.</DIV>
      <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
      <DIV>I have a few final questions</DIV>
      <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
      <DIV>1. In plumbing the oil return, Tracy relates that using the OMP=
 pad=20
      is OK.. Is it. It seems to be somewhat above the output fitting on=
 the=20
      RD1-c. Is that OK or should I drain it lower if possible?</DIV>
      <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
      <DIV>2. The Renesis has a really small oil pan. Would it be advisabl=
e to=20
      increase the size? If this is used, what oil level should be used?</=
DIV>
      <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
      <DIV>3. When the RD is disassembled for inspection, the 1/4" drillin=
g and=20
      stud to pry it off of the plate makes sense. However the spacer and=
=20
      gearbox itself are mated-- how do you separate these without damagin=
g=20
      them. I think they are sealed together by RTV.</DIV>
      <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
      <DIV>Thanks again.. I hope in the future to be contributing on the=
 other=20
      side of questions.</DIV>
      <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
      <DIV>Rich</DIV>
      <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>Not flying yet, but=
 here=20
    goes:</DIV>
    <DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR></DIV>
    <DIV class=3Dgmail_extra>The easiest place for oil return is the base=
 of the=20
    flywheel end rotor housing, ~2" up from the pan mating line, **on the=
 spark=20
    plug side of the engine**.&nbsp; Very short run and just slightly down=
hill.=20
    I drilled &amp; tapped 1/4" NPT &amp; screwed in an adapter to AN-6 fl=
air. I=20
    drilled &amp; tapped two places, &amp; plugged one. I T'd the two drai=
ns as=20
    others have done, but I've got an easy plan B if the T'd line doesn't=
 drain=20
    fast enough.</DIV>
    <DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR></DIV>
    <DIV class=3Dgmail_extra>Pan size? I've got the stock one on now. If=
 you go=20
    bigger, don't forget to move the pickup down to the new bottom.&nbsp;<=
/DIV>
    <DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR></DIV>
    <DIV class=3Dgmail_extra>3. When you do get 'em apart, there are seala=
nts that=20
    don't harden...</DIV><SPAN class=3DHOEnZb><FONT color=3D#888888>
    <DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR></DIV>
    <DIV=20
  class=3Dgmail_extra>Charlie</DIV></FONT></SPAN></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>=
<BR></DIV></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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