Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #63150
From: Charlie England <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Fuel Pump and Regulator
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2017 07:40:16 -0500
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>

As Andrew says, my Walbro GSL393 pumps (from Tracy, before he retired) say '20 Amp Fuse' right on the pump. If you don't already know this, an automotive blade fuse is a relatively fast blow device; it will blow at the slightest provocation. 'Aircraft quality' circuit breakers, on the other hand, are basically 'extremely slow blow' devices. They can take seconds to trip, unless the overload is extreme.

The nature of blade fuses is probably why Walbro specs 20 amp fuses; the load on the positive displacement pump is going to be changing constantly with injectors opening/closing, fuel lines expanding/contracting, mechanical regulator opening/closing, etc.

If you're using a different pump, the equation might change. I've got some little in-tank turbine pumps I'm playing with that only draw about 6 amps at full load. BTW, there's a recent thread on the VAF forum about electrical architecture surrounding the new (to Lyc drivers) automotive style injection, where one of the really smart contributors, who's done both Lyc and alt engine installs, makes the case that 'switchology' would be safer it it's as close as possible to conventional a/c techniques. He advocates that the primary pump have protection, but come up with the engine controller automatically, and only the backup pump get a separate switch. (Different subject; may start a new thread...)

Charlie


"Steve, I have two pumps in parallel - one pump usually indicates 35-36psi, when the second pump is on about 40 psi.

Both umps use 10 amp switched breakers.

Jeff"


On Fri, Mar 17, 2017 at 6:05 AM, Andrew Martin <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
Hi Steve
Pretty sure the pumps have 20 amp fuse required stamped on them. they can draw about 8-9 amp so 10 was just too close. you don't want to be changing these in flight.
stick with the regulator you got. in practice you wont be using both pumps unless one fails so the 10 psi increase wont happen in flight. the regulator has to flow the most when the engine is stopped but pump on. I'd doubt you'd see same increase at full rpm. A bigger regulator may not be a total fix it either, would need large fuel lines also to flow 2 pumps worth of fuel.
I think just a switch on the panel is fine for activating the pumps, a pressure switch is just something else to fail. and you may not realise you've got a bad pump. it would have to be setup to switch pumps and send you an alert, all of which can be done manually without much stress.
cheers
Andrew



On Fri, Mar 17, 2017 at 5:44 PM, steve Izett <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
Hi Guys

I fired up my secondary fuel pump for  the first time today and was met with what I didn’t expect.
Instead of seeing a blip in the fuel pressure, I had a 10psi increase and high current draw from the pump which blew its 10amp fuse.
I’ll up the fuse as its too low me thinks.

I used an old fuel regulator I had on a rail. It was of a Toyota 4AGE engine of about 135hp.
Seems like its not able to bypass enough fuel with both pumps running.

I think I need to install a higher power adjustable regulator.
What experience do you guys have with turning both pumps on simultaneously?

I’m putting a pressure switch in the circuit to turn on the backup pump if the fuel pressure drops below a preset level.

Appreciate your thoughts and experience.

Steve Izett
Genesis 4 port EC3 EM3 RD1C in a Glasair Super II RG still nearly finished!
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