X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com From: Received: from omr-a010e.mx.aol.com ([204.29.186.54] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.2c1) with ESMTPS id 9542490 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 06 Mar 2017 13:48:41 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.29.186.54; envelope-from=ARGOLDMAN@aol.com Received: from mtaomg-aah01.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-aah01.mx.aol.com [172.27.1.143]) by omr-a010e.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id BDB46380012A for ; Mon, 6 Mar 2017 13:48:25 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-abb10e.mail.aol.com (core-abb10.mail.aol.com [172.27.0.10]) by mtaomg-aah01.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id 5A67D38000084 for ; Mon, 6 Mar 2017 13:48:25 -0500 (EST) Full-name: ARGOLDMAN Message-ID: <19dc467.70b309ed.45ef08f9@aol.com> Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 13:48:25 -0500 Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Question about renesis rebuild sequence To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_19dc467.70b309ed.45ef08f9_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 9.8 sub 2019 X-Originating-IP: [23.25.33.118] x-aol-global-disposition: G DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=mx.aol.com; s=20150623; t=1488826105; bh=xUYEcewl/Rq76oPC8pf1fHHxNWb8X8/4n1dIiT7uSoY=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=Il8OfB9W6dSKfI9dutw2t2zbNaqUEkEJLC84YEKYdv7RsIHFi518Mh0Bj8Ox28KJt Tqhp2zY4efmpy7thB/vFHiV8UhPm39iPPCwWR152Pm6TdJDNTQIP9ZIt7eqGCv6Gx2 17WIP7xDMTV8FMrU5raO4z7atQ4z8/kOuaELdjxk= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1b018f58bdaef9120b --part1_19dc467.70b309ed.45ef08f9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for all of the advice. The engine is now sealed and I am going to work on the float, and oil pump, front area now. A couple of questions. 1. This is a Renesis and the manual gives a torque value for the eccentric shaft bolt at about 250 ft #s. for both checking the float and final assembly. This is more than double that used in the standard 13-b-- any reason for that or was it a misprint? 2. Turrentine suggests blue locktite on this bolt for final torquing when float spacer is correctly chosen is this a good idea? 3 With a metal front gasket, is any hylomar recommended?.. Piece by piece it is getting together-- thanks all for all the help. Rich In a message dated 2/21/2017 7:53:59 P.M. Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes: Bruce is correct in that the front stack is where so many rebuilds go down the drain. So the rear counterweight goes on first. Also once you do this a few times it can be just a personal choice. If the front bolt is not torqued down on a completed (correctly) front stack, rotating the engine through horizontal often allows that pesky spacer sleeve to move foreword just a bit and then the rear thrust bearing drops down behind the spacer. Now when you torque up the front bolt, you crush that bearing. Then you have zero end play and pieces of bearing adrift in your new engine. Do not use the front counterweight to hold the crank still while you torque anything. The keys are soft and can be deformed. The counterweight can warp a bit and upset the surface where the bearing washer sits. When checking end play,with the front of the engine still pointing up on the stand, just push up with your hand on the rear counterweight. Do not pry up on the front counterweight with a screw driver. The thrust plate is flexible and you may see a totally bogus measurement on your dial indicator, when part of your measurement is plate flex. In racing engines I used double lip seals on the rear counterweight installation. A stock looking rear main seal with a spring loaded lip facing the engine and a non spring loaded lip facing aft or, away from the engine to keep dirt away from the inner seal. In any case a bit of lube oil on that seal lip gives it a head start on a long life. Just a bit, as oil attracts dirt, the reason for the rear facing seal lip. Not needed on airplane stuff. Piece of cake.......................Lynn E. Hanover In a message dated 2/21/2017 6:42:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes: That's what I though, although Bruce says to tighten the rear nut (and admonishes you to not invert the engine) before the end-play testing. I actually made a counterweight holder of a piece of steel which also includes a removable counter torque angle. thanks Rich --part1_19dc467.70b309ed.45ef08f9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks for all of the advice.
 
The engine is now sealed and I am going to work on the float, and oil= pump,=20 front area now.
 
A couple of questions.
 
1. This is a Renesis and the manual gives a torque value for the= =20 eccentric shaft bolt at about 250 ft #s. for both checking the float and= final=20 assembly. This is more than double that used in the standard 13-b--= any=20 reason for that or was it a misprint?
 
2. Turrentine suggests blue locktite on this bolt for final torquing= when=20 float spacer is correctly chosen is this a good idea?
 
3 With a metal front gasket, is any hylomar recommended?..
 
Piece by piece it is getting together-- thanks all for all the help.<= /DIV>
 
Rich
 
In a message dated 2/21/2017 7:53:59 P.M. Central Standard Time,=20 flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
Bruce is correct in that the front stack is where so many rebuilds= go=20 down the drain. So the rear counterweight goes on first. Also once you= do this=20 a few times it can be just a personal choice. If the front bolt is not= torqued=20 down on a completed (correctly) front stack, rotating the engine through= =20 horizontal often allows that pesky spacer sleeve to move foreword just= a=20 bit and then the rear thrust bearing drops down behind the spacer.= Now=20 when you torque up the front bolt, you crush that bearing. Then you have= zero=20 end play and pieces of bearing
adrift in your new engine.
 
Do not use the front counterweight to hold the crank still while yo= u=20 torque anything. The keys are soft and can be deformed. The counterweigh= t can=20 warp a bit and upset the surface where the bearing washer sits.
 
When checking end play,with the front of the engine still pointing= =20 up on the stand, just push up with your hand on the rear counterwei= ght.=20 Do not pry up on the front counterweight with a screw driver. The thrust= plate=20 is flexible and you may see a totally bogus measurement on your dial=20 indicator, when part of your measurement is plate flex.
 
In racing engines I used double lip seals on the rear counterweight= =20 installation. A stock looking rear main seal with a spring loaded lip fa= cing=20 the engine and a non spring loaded lip facing aft or, away from the engi= ne to=20 keep dirt away from the inner seal.
In any case a bit of lube oil on that seal lip gives it  a hea= d=20 start on a long life. Just a bit, as oil attracts dirt, the reason for= the=20 rear facing seal lip. Not needed on airplane stuff.
Piece of cake.......................Lynn E. Hanover
 
In a message dated 2/21/2017 6:42:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,=20 flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
That's what I though, although Bruce says to tighten the rear nut= (and=20 admonishes you to not invert the engine) before the end-play testing.<= /DIV>
I actually made a counterweight holder of a piece of steel which= also=20 includes a removable counter torque angle.
 
thanks
 
Rich
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