X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com From: Received: from omr-a018e.mx.aol.com ([204.29.186.64] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.2c1) with ESMTPS id 9492088 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 21 Feb 2017 20:53:42 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.29.186.64; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from mtaomg-aak02.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-aak02.mx.aol.com [172.27.2.228]) by omr-a018e.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id 88FDE3800040 for ; Tue, 21 Feb 2017 20:53:26 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-mdx06c.mail.aol.com (core-mdx06.mail.aol.com [10.76.8.17]) by mtaomg-aak02.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id 72F533800008A for ; Tue, 21 Feb 2017 20:53:21 -0500 (EST) Full-name: Lehanover Message-ID: <1456d02.576fccc4.45de4911@aol.com> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 20:53:21 -0500 Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Question about renesis rebuild sequence To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_1456d02.576fccc4.45de4911_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 9.7 sub 19 X-Originating-IP: [97.97.209.151] DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=mx.aol.com; s=20150623; t=1487728406; bh=kJG7EU4yi63xABx0yu/vp0+5tlib4hFX6eqFmKeEJgY=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=X3hLPiTZHtbZfdUm3avz5haZHLgO8xRpzzEn/x+DmbaifQuJDEBft8mzzuxu1M6dM 8SYaKqRGPQhOrgy/UYcFwZrcXKc2a/282q4ZZ9sL+U/k5EAebhqkjJq5nHhY5r7FFi S3C56ujNhHmQO3BvaImecbmU6ri4vSCniA2yB9Sg= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1b02e458acef11767b --part1_1456d02.576fccc4.45de4911_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bruce is correct in that the front stack is where so many rebuilds go down the drain. So the rear counterweight goes on first. Also once you do this a few times it can be just a personal choice. If the front bolt is not torqued down on a completed (correctly) front stack, rotating the engine through horizontal often allows that pesky spacer sleeve to move foreword just a bit and then the rear thrust bearing drops down behind the spacer. Now when you torque up the front bolt, you crush that bearing. Then you have zero end play and pieces of bearing adrift in your new engine. Do not use the front counterweight to hold the crank still while you torque anything. The keys are soft and can be deformed. The counterweight can warp a bit and upset the surface where the bearing washer sits. When checking end play,with the front of the engine still pointing up on the stand, just push up with your hand on the rear counterweight. Do not pry up on the front counterweight with a screw driver. The thrust plate is flexible and you may see a totally bogus measurement on your dial indicator, when part of your measurement is plate flex. In racing engines I used double lip seals on the rear counterweight installation. A stock looking rear main seal with a spring loaded lip facing the engine and a non spring loaded lip facing aft or, away from the engine to keep dirt away from the inner seal. In any case a bit of lube oil on that seal lip gives it a head start on a long life. Just a bit, as oil attracts dirt, the reason for the rear facing seal lip. Not needed on airplane stuff. Piece of cake.......................Lynn E. Hanover In a message dated 2/21/2017 6:42:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes: That's what I though, although Bruce says to tighten the rear nut (and admonishes you to not invert the engine) before the end-play testing. I actually made a counterweight holder of a piece of steel which also includes a removable counter torque angle. thanks Rich --part1_1456d02.576fccc4.45de4911_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Bruce is correct in that the front stack is where so many rebuilds go= down=20 the drain. So the rear counterweight goes on first. Also once you do this= a few=20 times it can be just a personal choice. If the front bolt is not torqued= down on=20 a completed (correctly) front stack, rotating the engine through horizonta= l=20 often allows that pesky spacer sleeve to move foreword just a bit and= then=20 the rear thrust bearing drops down behind the spacer. Now when you torque= up the=20 front bolt, you crush that bearing. Then you have zero end play and pieces= of=20 bearing

adrift in your new engine.

Do not use the front counterweight to hold the crank still while you= torque=20 anything. The keys are soft and can be deformed. The counterweight can war= p a=20 bit and upset the surface where the bearing washer sits.

When checking end play,with the front of the engine still pointing=20 up on the stand, just push up with your hand on the rear counterweigh= t. Do=20 not pry up on the front counterweight with a screw driver. The thrust plat= e is=20 flexible and you may see a totally bogus measurement on your dial indicato= r,=20 when part of your measurement is plate flex.

In racing engines I used double lip seals on the rear counterweight= =20 installation. A stock looking rear main seal with a spring loaded lip faci= ng the=20 engine and a non spring loaded lip facing aft or, away from the engine to= keep=20 dirt away from the inner seal.

In any case a bit of lube oil on that seal lip gives it a head= start=20 on a long life. Just a bit, as oil attracts dirt, the reason for the rear= facing=20 seal lip. Not needed on airplane stuff.

Piece of cake.......................Lynn E. Hanover

In a message dated 2/21/2017 6:42:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,=20 flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

That's what I though, although Bruce says to tighten the rear nut= (and=20 admonishes you to not invert the engine) before the end-play testing.

I actually made a counterweight holder of a piece of steel which al= so=20 includes a removable counter torque angle.

thanks

Rich

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