X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com From: "William Jepson" Received: from mail-ua0-f169.google.com ([209.85.217.169] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.1.14) with ESMTPS id 9406112 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 26 Jan 2017 17:26:57 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.217.169; envelope-from=wrjjrs@gmail.com Received: by mail-ua0-f169.google.com with SMTP id 96so192759354uaq.3 for ; Thu, 26 Jan 2017 14:26:59 -0800 (PST) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=20161025; h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:from:date:message-id:subject:to; bh=e9t+VviB/wabhj/WAp6mTtiT4rtS6F55AODA98m003I=; b=aJ8TnteX6n086EmU040aQ4xH2fSDSKZCVFC4iiu7jrwlh6d4R8vvTEnrspq95uBa2t olb9k7/4Ifj19M8POzQ/OKYrJ27RpHCwbExG6nMcJnBUNXHUy0pj5F7FXQeqmrgKG8WK 9d0AAXSWVO/WgvvbPDRep28PTs4rWU7JLwcY3m8ZwHl7MSPEC0LZmTsFSl86Zpsrs6Hp OgGO0PHOjCvOUNMfV2IfGQ8YVAWTRroS+vsng8wKf98cWkhwG2Hvu3UfY5tYHy3TL/SG KYIuMYj1RGVCQ+7gXJbhuxH68uoayfwFXWA4UNDjy7gtUhW3zZMpAw+nFqkp9MhxBlBR tewg== X-Google-DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=1e100.net; s=20161025; h=x-gm-message-state:mime-version:in-reply-to:references:from:date :message-id:subject:to; bh=e9t+VviB/wabhj/WAp6mTtiT4rtS6F55AODA98m003I=; b=VPgFZg7mMx44VLH3QhbbvEfg3Fuu6gk/zb3gpN0JQSjBKXl1qYiaq7bz4UUXvPR3ND zO8XT5b2bTOSMPLX4mRdpkeCNxxFadJ9Zz0AkUD5iM2Enasvq4OI8sn+e8BwZcS5fWhu bZGft14/f7Cq3lg4De0yq4k3gyvtyazroinXmdmnfyc+f1/TshVqqMpjnxrUZrfZxEHV 9EM9g4oBuI2EG3Bd3Xp9Ba5aORu5ZKNDb208TotEhsMDkpk9oSZxkmHDSFv2RDGj96Ff UtPWvXWLt/i5UFou1y8npfqy27saVk1ZyTBv+WAMK0mi1tJEgCgoia9OTLHLcWR981DL EnBg== X-Gm-Message-State: AIkVDXKOm0d0DmPjQ7lVVWBG1XtGEuxeQ2K9VpxnmaaWUafGeFcewfElTLEo9nbWiHun2QA/uA9S/KW28J7Sfw== X-Received: by 10.159.35.15 with SMTP id 15mr2906475uae.47.1485469600797; Thu, 26 Jan 2017 14:26:40 -0800 (PST) MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: by 10.31.56.18 with HTTP; Thu, 26 Jan 2017 14:26:40 -0800 (PST) In-Reply-To: References: Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2017 14:26:40 -0800 Message-ID: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: exhaust wraps and blankets To: Rotary motors in aircraft Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=001a113d0e18e15c0e054706d7a4 --001a113d0e18e15c0e054706d7a4 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Tracy, This coating looks like many we used to put on air cooled motorcycle heads and cylinders. It is likely much better than some of the paints we used. Black body radiation is a well known principle, and this coating is better locked into the aluminum so should be better. (They do mention the coating is black on the site.) Black Anodize and various other coatings are often used on solar water heating systems as it absorbs heat faster too. (Black body radiation also lead the manufacturers of the solar heating panels to suggest draining them if you live in any area that gets NEAR freezing temperatures as the panels would freeze well before the water in the pipes because the black surfaces would give up their heat more easily. Bill On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 1:54 PM, rwstracy wrote: > Interesting! I=E2=80=99ll have to read more about that TLTD coating. > > Thanks! > > > > Tracy > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Nigel Baker > *Sent: *Thursday, January 26, 2017 7:12 AM > *To: *Rotary motors in aircraft > *Subject: *[FlyRotary] Re: exhaust wraps and blankets > > > > Exactly. Getting heat away on the outside is the idea. > > The CBC2 is used in the combustion chamber as a thermal barrier coating t= o > reduce heat going into the heads. > > The TLTD is used on the fins/outside of the heads as a thermal dispersant= . > I don=E2=80=99t know how it works but it does. It improves the transition= of the > heat in the heads to the cooling air. It must improve heat conductivity. > > There is descriptions of the application of both products on the website. > > Cheers. > > Nige. > > > > > > *From:* Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 25, 2017 1:34 AM > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: exhaust wraps and blankets > > > > Hi Nigel, > > Just curious. What was the idea in coating the outside of the heads? > The coatings are typically to block heat flow and I=E2=80=99d think we=E2= =80=99d like the > heat to flow out of the heads on an AeroVee. > > > > Tracy > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Nigel Baker > *Sent: *Tuesday, January 24, 2017 5:31 AM > *To: *Rotary motors in aircraft > *Subject: *[FlyRotary] Re: exhaust wraps and blankets > > > > Yep. I recently did coatings to an Aerovee type engine. Both Combustion > chambes and outside of the heads. > > I used CBC2 and TLTD from http://www.techlinecoatings. > com/hi-performance/shop-only.html\ > > > I am in OZ but fortunately it was available locally. > > The process was straight forward and I did the curing in the BBQ oven > outside. > > I also went ouch when I got a quote to have it done and it was far cheape= r > to by the stuff and do it myself ( I have a small grit blaster so did tha= t > myself as well but that was included in the quote). I have enough of the > stuff left over to do about another 10 sets of heads. > > Cheers. > > Nige. > > > > > > *From:* Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net > ] > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 24, 2017 7:56 AM > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: exhaust wraps and blankets > > > > Ouch. Anyone have any experience with any of the DIY coatings? For that > money, you consider building your own curing oven.... > > Charlie > > On 1/23/2017 3:01 PM, Ernest Christley wrote: > > Got a quote from Jet-Hot. A fairly simple Y shaped muffler system for > Corvair would be around $300. > > > > On Monday, January 23, 2017 3:11 PM, ARGOLDMAN > wrote: > > > > I am interested in ceramic coatings also. A question arises in the areas > of slip joints or ball joints. > > > > Also with pushers (perish the thought) what will the effect of a hotter > exhaust blowing on the propeller in a more concentrated fashion vs a cool= er > blast modified by the radiation of the exhaust system being cooled by > moving air leaving the cowling? > > Rich > > > > In a message dated 1/20/2017 1:14:08 P.M. Central Standard Time, > flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes: > > Lynn, Et All, > > I want to mention the alternative to heat wraps, ceramic coatings. I have > used Jet-Hot on headers for insulation and performance. Early Jet-Hot > didn't have a super high temp coating that would stand up to rotary exhau= st > temperatures. They have had an 1800=C2=B0F+ material for some time now. T= hey > needed to have a coating that would stand up to turbo header temperatures= . > They have a service where they apply to the inside and outside of the > pipes. There is a very minor smoothing effect that even help HP. The > insinuative effect is as good or better than most heat wraps, and the pip= es > look great too. I have used them for pipes on racing motorcycles that hav= e > tight fairings. I measured a 30=C2=B0 difference inside my fairing with n= o other > changes using color change tape, but I think is was even better than that > in terms of radiated heat. I had a battery located in the fairing mounted > low in front of the headers. This no longer was showing bubbling and > melting effects, and survived a 4 hour endurance race as a total loss > system. I don't work for those guys, and wasn't sponsored by them either.= I > highly recommend them. > > Bill Jepson > > > > On Fri, Jan 20, 2017 at 10:07 AM, Lehanover > wrote: > > The good news is: Heat wrap tape works great. Amazing drop in temps aroun= d > the engine. > > > > The bad news is: Carbon steel headers, even in .140" wall turn to dust in > one racing season. > > Literally you can crush the header pipes with one hand. The outside radiu= s > of bent tubes is thinner and will fail sooner.That bright orange header > you see in tapes of dyno runs is exactly what your heat taped header look= s > like. How strong is bright orange steel? Even stainless? Steel under > stress fails sooner. Each down pipe should be free to twist and squirm a > bit as it heats and cools. Only stainless down tubes and only thick wall > stainless at that. If you wrap the whole thing the exiting exhaust gasses > will be close the EGT readings on the gage. Will your car muffler hold up > to 1600 degrees. If some heat tape falls off along those pipes will the > bright orange pipe damage anything important? > > > > Then a collector to take the two or three tubes (all exactly the same > length) in and then the beginning of the exhaust system. Collector attach= es > with stiff springs the down pipes. A strap fail safe in case a spring > fails. Two strands of safety wire through the spring loosely in case the > spring fails (they like to sing along with the engine) you know and a pie= ce > of spring will find a place to get stuck that will be the least helpful. > The collector is supported loosely by a bracket that moves with the > engine. > > > > Then a slip joint or flex joint of some kind to account for the engine > moving about with power changes. Then the exhaust system, mufflers and > so-on may be mounted to the chassis. > > Non rigid mountings to keep the noise down would be good. > > > > The whole system may may be covered with .015" stainless shielding space= d > one inch at least off of the tubes. Air blowing between the shielding an= d > the header/exhaust tubing does a good job of reducing temperatures under > hood/cowl, and keeps the shielding from radiating higher temps. > > > > Been there. Done that. > > > > Lynn E. Hanover > > > > In a message dated 1/20/2017 9:11:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes: > > My problem with the wrap is that it makes inspection somewhere between > difficult and impossible. I opted for wrapping the muffler in a .025 > stainless shroud that went all the way to the air exit, and ducting > airflow through it. Sort of a muffler over the muffler. It'd be heavy, > but the shroud could have been lined on the inside with blanket material > for more heat isolation. > > > > > > > > On Friday, January 20, 2017 1:48 AM, Todd Bartrim < > flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote: > > > > So I'm interested to hear about thoughts on exhaust wraps? I know that > some people like them and others don't. Also some header manufactures don= 't > like them. But the fact is that we have one heck of a lot of radiant heat > under the cowl. Heat shields help some but I really just want to try to > keep most of the heat going down the exhaust pipe. I know ceramic coating > on the inside of the pipe is the best solution, but once a pipe is no > longer new it becomes more difficult to apply and hope for it to stay. On > my first ever engine build I had my rotors ceramic coated as that was > supposed to reduce oil heating, but after I had a little detonation > incident I found during the rebuild that much of the ceramic had come off > due to the shock of detonation. In my mind, I don't feel that ceramic > coating the outside of the pipe is any better than wrapping them as the > heat is still absorbed by the metal but unable to radiate out. > > But the biggest argument against ceramic coating is that once it's > done, you can't modify your pipe (welding etc.) without having it redone > again. A good example of this just happened as I'd already had my exhaust > completed some months ago, not expecting that it would change again... Bu= t > then somebody on this list started saying how great his PLX wideband sens= or > was, blah, blah, blah, and suddenly I'm out a couple of hundred bucks and > having to redo my exhaust because it's recommended that the sensor be > located at an 15 degree angle, no less than 36" downstream from a turbo, > while my old narrow band sensor was only 14" downstream. So rather than > leaving the old sensor in place I decided to cut it off along with anothe= r > (long ago) incorrectly placed EGT port and weld a patch over it, then > install a new O2 bung downstream. Pretty simple to unwrap, weld and re-wr= ap. > > So as far as wraps go... lets hear it. Good, bad or ugly. > > > > Next is blankets. I have the original mazda metal turbo shroud in place > but then I bought a large turbo blanket to fit over that. The exhaust > manifold that the turbo bolts to also has a stck Mazda metal sheild but I > made one to fit over that as I feel these 2 items probably account for th= e > largest source of under-cowl heat and since the oli cooler is directly > below that, I want to eliminate that source of radiant heat transfer. I > made this cover using 2 different styles of welding blanket sewed togethe= r > like a quilt. The ball joint in my exhaust pipe, I decided to also cover > with a blanket like this rather than wrapping it, so I made it into a > sleeve that slides over the joint. Finally we get down to the muffler whi= ch > is located inside a housing (more on that in a another post), due to it's > location inside a housing I decided to put a quilted blanket sleeve over > that one too. > > > > Pics of all this and more at this link. > > > > https://goo.gl/photos/ NvD5YH4jwbktESi88 > > > > Todd Bartrim > > > > C-FSTB > > RV9 13Bturbo > > > > > > > > > > > > > --001a113d0e18e15c0e054706d7a4 Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Tracy,
This coating looks like many we used to put on = air cooled motorcycle heads and cylinders. It is likely much better than so= me of the paints we used. Black body radiation is a well known principle, a= nd this coating is better locked into the aluminum so should be better. (Th= ey do mention the coating is black on the site.) Black Anodize and various = other coatings are often used on solar water heating systems as it absorbs = heat faster too. (Black body radiation also lead the manufacturers of the s= olar heating panels to suggest draining them if you live in any area that g= ets NEAR freezing temperatures as the panels would freeze well before the w= ater in the pipes because the black surfaces would give up their heat more = easily.=C2=A0
Bill

On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 1:54 PM, rwstracy <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

Interesting!= =C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ll have to read more about that TLTD coating.

Thanks!

=C2=A0

Tracy

=C2=A0

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

=C2=A0

From: Nigel Baker
Sent: Thursday, = January 26, 2017 7:12 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: <= /b>[FlyRotary] Re: exhaust wraps and blankets

=C2=A0

Exactly. Getting heat away on the outside is the idea.<= u>

The CBC2 is used in the combustion chamber as a thermal = barrier coating to reduce heat going into the heads.

The T= LTD is used on the fins/outside of the heads as a thermal dispersant. I don= =E2=80=99t know how it works but it does. It improves the transition of the= heat in the heads to the cooling air. It must improve heat conductivity.

There is descriptions of the application of both products o= n the website.

Cheers.

Nige.

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

<= p class=3D"MsoNormal">From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@l= ancaironline.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 1:34 AM<= br>To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: exhaust wraps and blankets

<= /div>

=C2=A0=

Hi Nigel,

=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Just curious.=C2=A0 What was the idea in coatin= g the outside of the heads?=C2=A0 The coatings are typically to block heat = flow and I=E2=80=99d think we=E2=80=99d like the heat to flow out of the he= ads on an AeroVee.

=C2=A0=

Tracy

=C2=A0

Sent from Mail fo= r Windows 10

=C2=A0

From: Nigel Baker
Sent: Tuesda= y, January 24, 2017 5:31 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject= : [FlyRotary] Re: exhaust wraps and blankets

=C2=A0

Yep. I recently did coatings to an Aerovee type engine. Both C= ombustion chambes and outside of the heads.

I used CBC2 and TLTD from http://www.techlinecoatings.com/h= i-performance/shop-only.html\

I am in OZ but fortunately it was av= ailable locally.

The process was straight forward and I did the curing in the BBQ= oven outside.

I also went ouch when I got a quote to have it done and it was far = cheaper to by the stuff and do it myself ( I have a small grit blaster so d= id that myself as well but that was included in the quote). I have enough o= f the stuff left over to do about another 10 sets of heads.

Cheers.<= /span>

Nige.

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

Fr= om: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
<= b>Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 7:56 AM
To: Rotary motors i= n aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re:= exhaust wraps and blankets

=C2=A0

Ouch. Anyone have any experience with any of the DIY coati= ngs? For that money, you consider building your own curing oven....

= Charlie

On 1/23/2017 3:01 PM, Ernest Christley wrote:<= /span>

=
=

Got a quote = from Jet-Hot.=C2=A0 A fairly simple Y shaped muffler system for Corvair wou= ld be around $300.

=C2= =A0

On Monday, January 23, 2017= 3:11 PM, ARGOLDMAN <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

=C2=A0

<= div>

I am interest= ed in ceramic coatings also. A question arises in the areas of slip joints = or ball joints.

=C2=A0

Also with pushers (perish the thought) what will the ef= fect of a hotter exhaust blowing on the propeller in a more concentrated fa= shion vs a cooler blast modified by the radiation of the exhaust system bei= ng cooled by moving air leaving the cowling?

=

Rich

=C2=A0=

In a message dated 1/20/2017 1:14:08 P.M. Central Stan= dard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

Lynn, Et All,

I want to mention the alternative to heat wraps, ceramic coatings. I h= ave used Jet-Hot on headers for insulation and performance. Early Jet-Hot d= idn't have a super high temp coating that would stand up to rotary exha= ust temperatures. They have had an 1800=C2=B0F+ material for some time now.= They needed to have a coating that would stand up to turbo header temperat= ures. They have a service where they apply to the inside and outside of the= pipes. There is a very minor smoothing effect that even help HP. The insin= uative effect is as good or better than most heat wraps, and the pipes look= great too. I have used them for pipes on racing motorcycles that have tigh= t fairings. I measured a 30=C2=B0 difference inside my fairing with no othe= r changes using color change tape, but I think is was even better than that= in terms of radiated heat. I had a battery located in the fairing mounted = low in front of the headers. This no longer was showing bubbling and meltin= g effects, and survived a 4 hour endurance race as a total loss system. I d= on't work for those guys, and wasn't sponsored by them either. I hi= ghly recommend them.

Bill Jepson=C2=A0

=C2=A0

On Fri, Jan 20= , 2017 at 10:07 AM, Lehanover <flyrot= ary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

=

The good news is: Heat wrap tape works great. Amazing drop in tem= ps around the engine.

=C2=A0

The bad news is: Carbon steel headers, even i= n .140" wall=C2=A0turn to dust in one racing season.

Literally you can crush the header pipes with one hand= . The outside radius of bent tubes is thinner and will =C2=A0fail sooner.Th= at bright orange header you see in tapes of dyno runs is exactly what your = heat taped header looks like. How strong is bright orange steel? Even stain= less?=C2=A0 =C2=A0Steel under stress fails sooner.=C2=A0 Each down pipe sho= uld be free to twist and squirm a bit as it heats and cools. Only stainless= down tubes and only thick wall stainless at that. If you wrap the whole th= ing the exiting exhaust gasses will be close the=C2=A0EGT readings on the g= age. Will your car muffler hold up to 1600 degrees. If some heat tape falls= off along those pipes will the bright orange pipe damage anything importan= t?

=C2=A0

Then a collector to take the two or three tubes (all exactly th= e same length) in and then the beginning of the exhaust system. Collector a= ttaches with stiff springs the=C2=A0down pipes. A strap=C2=A0fail safe in c= ase a spring fails. Two strands of safety wire through the spring loosely i= n case the spring fails (they like to sing along with the engine) you know = and a piece of spring will find a place to get stuck that will be the least= helpful. The collector is supported=C2=A0 loosely=C2=A0by a bracket that m= oves with the engine.

=C2=A0<= u>

Then a slip joint or flex joint of some kind= to account for the engine moving about with power changes. Then the exhaus= t system, mufflers and so-on may be mounted to the chassis. <= /span>

Non rigid mountings to keep the noise down would be= good.

=C2=A0

The whole system may =C2=A0may be covered with .015" s= tainless shielding spaced one inch at least off of the tubes.=C2=A0 Air blo= wing between the shielding and the header/exhaust tubing does a good job of= reducing temperatures under hood/cowl, and keeps the shielding from radiat= ing higher temps.

=C2=A0<= /u>

Been there. Done that.

=

=C2=A0

Lynn E. Hanover<= u>

=C2=A0

=

In a message dated 1/20/2017 9:11:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Tim= e, flyrotary@lancaironline.net write= s:

My pr= oblem with the wrap is that it makes inspection somewhere between difficult= and impossible.=C2=A0 I opted for wrapping the muffler in a .025 stainless= shroud that went all the way to the air exit, =C2=A0and ducting airflow th= rough it.=C2=A0 Sort of a muffler over the muffler.=C2=A0 It'd be heavy= , but the shroud could have been lined on the inside with blanket material = for more heat isolation.

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

=

On Friday, January 20, 2017 1:48 AM, Todd Bar= trim <flyrotary@lancaironline.net= > wrote:

=C2=A0

<= div>

So I'm interested to hear about thoughts on exhaust wra= ps? I know that some people like them and others don't. Also some heade= r manufactures don't like them. But the fact is that we have one heck o= f a lot of radiant heat under the cowl. Heat shields help some but I really= just want to try to keep most of the heat going down the exhaust pipe. I k= now ceramic coating on the inside of the pipe is the best solution, but onc= e a pipe is no longer new it becomes more difficult to apply and hope for i= t to stay. On my first ever engine build I had my rotors ceramic coated as = that was supposed to reduce oil heating, but after I had a little detonatio= n incident I found during the rebuild that much of the ceramic had come off= due to the shock of detonation. In my mind, I don't feel that ceramic = coating the outside of the pipe is any better than wrapping them as the hea= t is still absorbed by the metal but unable to radiate out.

=C2=A0 =C2=A0But the biggest argument against ce= ramic coating is that once it's done, you can't modify your pipe (w= elding etc.) without having it redone again. A good example of this just ha= ppened as I'd already had my exhaust completed some months ago, not exp= ecting that it would change again... But then somebody on this list started= saying how great his PLX wideband sensor was, blah, blah, blah, and sudden= ly I'm out a couple of hundred bucks and having to redo my exhaust beca= use it's recommended that the sensor be located at an 15 degree angle, = no less than 36" downstream from a turbo, while my old narrow band sen= sor was only 14" downstream. So rather than leaving the old sensor in = place I decided to cut it off along with another (long ago) incorrectly pla= ced EGT port and weld a patch over it, then install a new O2 bung downstrea= m. Pretty simple to unwrap, weld and re-wrap.

= So as far as wraps go... lets hear it. Good, bad or ugly.

=C2=A0=C2=A0

=

=C2=A0Next is blankets. I have the original mazda metal t= urbo shroud in place but then I bought a large turbo blanket to fit over th= at. The exhaust manifold that the turbo bolts to also has a stck Mazda meta= l sheild but I made one to fit over that as I feel these 2 items probably a= ccount for the largest source of under-cowl heat and since the oli cooler i= s directly below that, I want to eliminate that source of radiant heat tran= sfer. I made this cover using 2 different styles of welding blanket sewed t= ogether like a quilt. The ball joint in my exhaust pipe, I decided to also = cover with a blanket like this rather than wrapping it, so I made it into a= sleeve that slides over the joint. Finally we get down to the muffler whic= h is located inside a housing (more on that in a another post), due to it&#= 39;s location inside a housing I decided to put a quilted blanket sleeve ov= er that one too.

=C2=A0=

Pics of all this and more at this link.=

=C2=A0


Todd Bartrim=

=C2=A0

C-FSTB

RV9 13Bturbo<= /u>

=C2=A0

<= /u>=C2=A0

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

= =C2=A0


--001a113d0e18e15c0e054706d7a4--