In a message dated 9/17/2002 8:25:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
marv@lancaironline.net writes:

> Fred, I found that wedging a pry bar between the counter weight and engine
>  such that a steady pressure is put on the counterweight and then rapping
the
>  edge of the counter weight with a small 2 lb sledge hammer ( don't use a
>  regular hammer as it does not have the mass to do the job right and you'll
>  just bang up your counter weight).  This has always worked for me (all of
>  the three or four tear downs I have done).
>  
>  Ed Anderson
>  
    Also, put the nut back on, but leave it loose a few turns. A liberated
counterweight  
    can travel quite a distance. I drive a very large square shank screw
driver between the balance weight and a mounting bolt for the stationary
gear. Then I heat the counter weight around the crank with a torch. Usually
they just go "Bang" and pop right off. Striking the weight at a 90 degree
angle to the crank will take anything off. Leaving the nut on also protects
the threads in case you miss.
Lynn E. Hanover