X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com From: "Kelly Troyer" Received: from mail-ig0-f181.google.com ([209.85.213.181] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.1.8) with ESMTPS id 8309943 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 07 Jan 2016 13:33:53 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.213.181; envelope-from=keltro@gmail.com Received: by mail-ig0-f181.google.com with SMTP id z14so40268089igp.1 for ; Thu, 07 Jan 2016 10:33:52 -0800 (PST) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=ttMPg+jrawABtZ611XooiXfbAAOVwfyVcej1ZvSrIGg=; b=hdBfWcINMC1hqH9+PNxziB0KEqOZnjtHz1K4iOhHXTLcZ1E8F1hQcTQsHL+nkahpUo 4VSKuhyEYnNjnaqIcH+U2dr2azCDVzE93HduxOLLAzDmro3GRT0r6vhryigu+guvJ0Mf 6t8gX99PruykXts+Wr3YGxe81EYI5kFdPYcXjCZyrsBYqMFrpPbZSyKllvbhBXbONW6Z LQybrzESJgOfMT8305NX/cZrdX5Mvj5pGT2gHw0AUcgogodPQPlIEhDWbOR1pIPGTVL7 9Le/m4WB96EwVW5u6uEAAnqudxgH5WWrCpxy29uv87g1bALEujJ6i1PzQ3mwxQtEs6xi jpMQ== MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Received: by 10.50.109.201 with SMTP id hu9mr18043463igb.5.1452191614680; Thu, 07 Jan 2016 10:33:34 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.79.14.215 with HTTP; Thu, 7 Jan 2016 10:33:34 -0800 (PST) In-Reply-To: References: Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2016 12:33:34 -0600 Message-ID: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Tuning To: Rotary motors in aircraft Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=089e0112c7d656c46d0528c2b5d0 --089e0112c7d656c46d0528c2b5d0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Group, Link to "Racing Beat" opinion on the use of "BR10EIX" plugs in the Rotary...............FWIW http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1992/Ignition/11524.html Kelly Troyer On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 12:05 PM, Steven W. Boese < flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote: > When using stock spark plugs, I would get 15 to 20 hours of use before > encountering SAG. With BR10 EIX spark plugs in both leading and trailing > locations, I did not have any problems for 180 hours. I don't know how > long they would have gone since they were changed simply due to the gap > widening as the electrodes became worn. They were still working fine when > removed. No leaded fuel was used. > > > Steve Boese > RV6A, 1986 13B NA, RD1A, EC2 > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Rotary motors in aircraft on behalf > of Lehanover > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 5, 2016 10:22 PM > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: Tuning > > Try this: > > Gap the plugs down to .010". I used a MSD-6A on both leading and trailing. > No misses up to 9,600 RPM. > > For 100% duty cycle 11.5 is the heat range you want. 9s and 10s are too > hot. There is an Autolite plug > > about the 10 heat range but I am in Florida and all of my data in Hebron > Ohio. The NGK 11.5 plugs are $25.00 each and are retracted tip side > electrode. Can be gapped and are ice cold. A 12.7 mixture should get you > 1575 to 1600 EGTs. Once on top, lean to stumble of slight sag then back > rich a bit for economy, or lean to best RPM for best power. Best timing is > 25 to 27 degrees BTDC for higher octanes. Lower octane fuel works better > than higher octane fuel. In that case 22 to 24 degrees. The rotary needs > little advance as there is a long dwell near TDC. The timing marks on the > crank are moving 3 times faster than the rotor. IE 30 degrees on the pulley > is 10 degrees at the rotor. > > The timing marks can be added to the front pulley or to the flywheel > teeth. Often the flywheel is better. Divide the flywheel tooth count by 360 > to get the degrees per tooth. Find TDC. Mark a flexplate (or flywheel) > tooth next to your new rigid pointer with red paint (for TDC). Then turn > the engine backwards the correct number of teeth to find the advance number > you want to run. Mark that tooth or valley between teeth with white paint > right next to your pointer. No curve, advance weights or vacuum anything is > required as the engine will start and idle at full advance. Now you can set > your timing dead on and it is easy to see and check from time to time. No > tuning is possible without the correct timing to begin with. > > Both leading and trailing may be fired at once. The split timing is mostly > for pollution control. It has very little affect at speed. > > Lynn E. Hanover > > > --089e0112c7d656c46d0528c2b5d0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Group,
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Link to "Racing Beat" op= inion on the use of "BR10EIX" plugs in the Rotary...............F= WIW


Kelly Troyer

On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 12:05 P= M, Steven W. Boese <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> w= rote:

When using stock spark plugs, I would get 15 to 20 hours of use before e= ncountering SAG.=C2=A0 With BR10 EIX spark plugs in both leading and traili= ng locations, I did not have any problems for 180 hours.=C2=A0 I don't = know how long they would have gone since they were changed simply due to the gap widening as the electrodes became worn.= =C2=A0 They were still working fine when removed.=C2=A0 No leaded fuel was = used.=C2=A0


Steve Boese
RV6A, 1986 13B NA, RD1A, EC2


From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironlin= e.net> on behalf of Lehanover <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2016 10:22 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Tuning
=C2=A0
Try this:
=C2=A0
Gap the plugs down to .010". I used a MSD-6A on both leading and = trailing. No misses up to 9,600 RPM.
=C2=A0
For 100% duty cycle 11.5 is the heat range you want. 9s and 10s are to= o hot. There is an Autolite plug
=C2=A0
about the 10 heat range but I am in Florida and all of my data in=C2= =A0Hebron Ohio. The NGK 11.5 plugs are $25.00 each and are retracted tip si= de electrode. Can be gapped and are ice cold. A 12.7 mixture should get you= 1575 to 1600 EGTs. Once on top, lean to stumble of slight sag then back rich a bit for economy, or lean to best RP= M for best power.=C2=A0Best timing is 25 to 27 degrees BTDC for higher octa= nes. Lower octane fuel works better than higher octane fuel. In that case 2= 2 to 24 degrees. The rotary needs little advance as there is a long dwell near TDC. The timing marks on the crank a= re moving 3 times faster than the rotor. IE 30 degrees on the pulley is 10 = degrees at the rotor.
=C2=A0
The timing marks can be added to the front pulley or to the flywheel t= eeth. Often the flywheel is better. Divide the flywheel tooth count by 360 = to get the degrees per tooth. Find TDC. Mark a flexplate (or flywheel) toot= h=C2=A0next to your new rigid pointer with red paint (for TDC). Then turn the engine backwards the correct numbe= r of teeth to find the advance number you want to run. Mark that tooth or v= alley between teeth with white paint=C2=A0 right next to your pointer.=C2= =A0No curve, advance weights or vacuum anything is required=C2=A0as the engine will start and idle at full advance. Now yo= u can set your timing dead on and it is easy to see and check from time to = time. No tuning is possible without the correct timing to begin with.
=C2=A0
Both leading and trailing may be fired at once. The split timing is mo= stly for pollution control. It has very little affect at speed.
=C2=A0
Lynn E. Hanover
=C2=A0
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0




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