X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com From: Received: from omr-m007e.mx.aol.com ([204.29.186.9] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.1.8) with ESMTPS id 8305375 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 06 Jan 2016 00:22:49 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.29.186.9; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from mtaomg-mbd01.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-mbd01.mx.aol.com [172.26.252.15]) by omr-m007e.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id C28D738000A1 for ; Wed, 6 Jan 2016 00:22:29 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-moa04b.mail.aol.com (core-moa04.mail.aol.com [172.27.97.14]) by mtaomg-mbd01.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id 9730E38000083 for ; Wed, 6 Jan 2016 00:22:29 -0500 (EST) Full-name: Lehanover Message-ID: <4a1c4.35fb4ed0.43bdfe95@aol.com> Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 00:22:29 -0500 Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Tuning To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_4a1c4.35fb4ed0.43bdfe95_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 9.0 VR sub 164 X-Originating-IP: [65.32.224.140] x-aol-global-disposition: G DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=mx.aol.com; s=20150623; t=1452057749; bh=30QiIjUJq7QadssCGHZi8+2yBuPRuBdLfUXPMM2Praw=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=bDAZ9sNBYJhX2FLvB2uEGMIiF9HVO/tibPuFvhKXlcc4vYi9nzDv/BJnkVhu7kLMa QZkw8r+a6im0RKfDivbgnvNnfvfhkzHM9vswKbvZDiSJ/tbuIzTykbve/u+aBpozNj 5MShqaGCf+kKr/DEiND4qZ4B5s10z3D+hyuddImc= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1afc0f568ca4955273 --part1_4a1c4.35fb4ed0.43bdfe95_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try this: Gap the plugs down to .010". I used a MSD-6A on both leading and trailing. No misses up to 9,600 RPM. For 100% duty cycle 11.5 is the heat range you want. 9s and 10s are too hot. There is an Autolite plug about the 10 heat range but I am in Florida and all of my data in Hebron Ohio. The NGK 11.5 plugs are $25.00 each and are retracted tip side electrode. Can be gapped and are ice cold. A 12.7 mixture should get you 1575 to 1600 EGTs. Once on top, lean to stumble of slight sag then back rich a bit for economy, or lean to best RPM for best power. Best timing is 25 to 27 degrees BTDC for higher octanes. Lower octane fuel works better than higher octane fuel. In that case 22 to 24 degrees. The rotary needs little advance as there is a long dwell near TDC. The timing marks on the crank are moving 3 times faster than the rotor. IE 30 degrees on the pulley is 10 degrees at the rotor. The timing marks can be added to the front pulley or to the flywheel teeth. Often the flywheel is better. Divide the flywheel tooth count by 360 to get the degrees per tooth. Find TDC. Mark a flexplate (or flywheel) tooth next to your new rigid pointer with red paint (for TDC). Then turn the engine backwards the correct number of teeth to find the advance number you want to run. Mark that tooth or valley between teeth with white paint right next to your pointer. No curve, advance weights or vacuum anything is required as the engine will start and idle at full advance. Now you can set your timing dead on and it is easy to see and check from time to time. No tuning is possible without the correct timing to begin with. Both leading and trailing may be fired at once. The split timing is mostly for pollution control. It has very little affect at speed. Lynn E. Hanover --part1_4a1c4.35fb4ed0.43bdfe95_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Try this:

Gap the plugs down to .010". I used a MSD-6A on both leading and trai= ling.=20 No misses up to 9,600 RPM.

For 100% duty cycle 11.5 is the heat range you want. 9s and 10s are= too=20 hot. There is an Autolite plug

about the 10 heat range but I am in Florida and all of my data=20 in Hebron Ohio. The NGK 11.5 plugs are $25.00 each and are retracted= tip=20 side electrode. Can be gapped and are ice cold. A 12.7 mixture should get= you=20 1575 to 1600 EGTs. Once on top, lean to stumble of slight sag then back ri= ch a=20 bit for economy, or lean to best RPM for best power. Best timing is= 25 to=20 27 degrees BTDC for higher octanes. Lower octane fuel works better than hi= gher=20 octane fuel. In that case 22 to 24 degrees. The rotary needs little advanc= e as=20 there is a long dwell near TDC. The timing marks on the crank are moving= 3 times=20 faster than the rotor. IE 30 degrees on the pulley is 10 degrees at the=20 rotor.

The timing marks can be added to the front pulley or to the flywheel= teeth.=20 Often the flywheel is better. Divide the flywheel tooth count by 360 to ge= t the=20 degrees per tooth. Find TDC. Mark a flexplate (or flywheel) tooth nex= t to=20 your new rigid pointer with red paint (for TDC). Then turn the engine back= wards=20 the correct number of teeth to find the advance number you want to run. Ma= rk=20 that tooth or valley between teeth with white paint right next to yo= ur=20 pointer. No curve, advance weights or vacuum anything is required&nbs= p;as=20 the engine will start and idle at full advance. Now you can set your timin= g dead=20 on and it is easy to see and check from time to time. No tuning is possibl= e=20 without the correct timing to begin with.

Both leading and trailing may be fired at once. The split timing is= mostly=20 for pollution control. It has very little affect at speed.

Lynn E. Hanover

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