I have yet to check the pressure regulators but its on the list. I first intend to check pressure with a manual gage at various locations. I also intend to isolate the remote filter, the main cooler and the front cooler and see what I get before I take anything apart. Also, I have all but decided to take the front oil cooler out of the system completely. Oil temp has mot been an issue and I think the standard oil cooler is sufficient. The front oil cooler was installed per plans for a Velocity with a Lycoming to provide cabin heat. However, it greatly complicates my oil plumbing as it is in parallel plumbing install to accommodate the front aviation cooler (plumbed in series the pressure was too high and oil seeped out of the oil filter as the front cooler seemed to provide a restriction). Cabin heat is a minor concern most the year in Houston....also, it's my understanding it is marginal heating at best. When I need cabin heat, it seems to be more logical to use the coolant system than oil as is in the car. This should be a pretty straight forward mod and may take some of the "strain" off the oil pump as its about a twenty + foot round trip to and from the front cooler. I have not dropped the pan yet to check the pickup. However, the pickup was properly torqued and then safety wired. The bolts are longer to accommodate the engine mounting plate. Something may be blocking it but I'm at a loss as to what. Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 22, 2013, at 16:33, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, OK, so much for that as a possibility. Have you checked your pressure regulators? One may be stuck open. Just a thought. Another possibility is the oil pump pickup. The screen could be plugged, and/or there could be a poor seal where the pickup tube attaches to the pump. Have you checked your front cover to see that it is flat and not warped? Mark On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 4:19 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: I did not remove the shaft. I simply blocked the mount with a plate. Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 22, 2013, at 15:11, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Did you remove the OMP shaft? If you removed it, did you plug the oil galley? On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 12:51 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Pre-mix. Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 22, 2013, at 5:36, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, One question... are you running the oil injection pump or did you remove and go with pre-mix? Mark On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 7:08 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Yeah, Mark, that's my thinking too. I think I posted to share more than expecting a magic billet solution. Chris Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 21, 2013, at 18:45, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, At this point I wouldn't take anything for granted. I would install multiple oil pressure gauges throughout the system, one right at the front cover and one at the oil filter adapter block. It seems to me that there's got to be something you've overlooked. Suspect everything. I had an oil cooling problem that I couldn't seem to get a handle on until one day I noticed the upper tank of my dual pass oil cooler was shaped differently than the other end. It was bowed outward. In this design (dual-pass), there is a dam between the inlet and outlet ports. It is a tight fit, but it isn't welded to the tank. So, when the tank bowed, it allowed most of the oil to bypass the core, essentially rendering the oil cooler useless. I installed a new oil cooler and all is well. I tell this story to emphasize not to take anything for granted. Suspect everything, verify everything. You will find the problem hiding somewhere you never would have thought of in a million years. Think like inspector Columbo, "... just one more question, ma'am." Mark S. On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 5:58 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Well, if any of y'all are curious about my progress, I am grounded in Phase One. I am having oil pressure problems again. The frustration is huge. To add to this, most of the archive searches I have made give results that prominently feature my inquiries. <sigh> Following my engine out over the airport in April traced to gunk in the fuel rail, mods were made to the fuel system. During static tests the oil pressure would never come up to expectations. Hoping to lick the front o-ring problem that I have had SEVERAL times now, I pulled the front cover to take a look see. The o-ring was torn. I choose to be more assertive in trying to address this problem. I modified a brass fitting by grinding the OD to make it it cleanly fit inside the front iron (also, ground the inside diameter to keep flow as close as possible to stock) and tapped the front housing to accept the fitting to screw in. I then placed an o-ring around the fitting. I did not include the silicone ring this time as it kept preventing the smooth mating it the iron and cover. While apart, I verified the woodruff key was properly installed in the oil pump. The oil pump was replaced last time the cover was off. I also verified the oil pressure relief valve. It was still in place (not surprising since it has been safety wired in following it falling out once). I buttoned everything back up being meticulous that the o-ring mod seated properly. However, my oil pressure is still low. It's in the twenties (psi) while idling. This is not too bad as Racing Beat states this is acceptable at idle. But, when I rev it up to as much as 6000 (only long enough to verify trend) it only goes into the 30's. NOT acceptable. The engine has had carb jets replace the e-shaft ball. I believe this can lower the oil pressure a bit. Also, there is a front oil cooler installed. This necessitates about a 12 foot oil line run. It is plumbed in parallel. This could provide a bit lower pressure too I think. I using a mixture of Royal Purple 30, 40 and 50 oil. I added what was available at the time. I have yet to check the oil pressure regulator. I specifically remember installing it to torque with blue lock-tight last time I had access. I plan to isolate the engine from the coolers and filter and take readings using a mechanical gage. Currently I have two electronic gages, one for the RWS monitor and one for the SkyView monitor. They both read within a couple of psi from each other. If not for this Achilles Heal I would very likely out of Phase One and planning a trip to Osh. It has been a major distraction of energy and time. I know it could be bearings but the stationary gears and bearings were replaced at the last rebuild. Everything else seemed in spec. The front eccentric thermostat was replaced with the plug. The oil is flowing as the system heats up evenly. I need to see if the hoses are hard while running, as the no-pistons site says, hard like a brick. Insight as to what may be my problem and diagnostic course is always appreciated. I hope I have provided enough info and not omitted relevant information. I really can't express my annoyance/anger/disgust properly. Thanks again folks. Chris Barber. Houston Velocity 13b Sent from my iPhone 5 -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
Chris, OK, so much for that as a possibility. Have you checked your pressure regulators? One may be stuck open. Just a thought. Another possibility is the oil pump pickup. The screen could be plugged, and/or there could be a poor seal where the pickup tube attaches to the pump. Have you checked your front cover to see that it is flat and not warped? Mark On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 4:19 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: I did not remove the shaft. I simply blocked the mount with a plate. Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 22, 2013, at 15:11, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Did you remove the OMP shaft? If you removed it, did you plug the oil galley? On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 12:51 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Pre-mix. Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 22, 2013, at 5:36, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, One question... are you running the oil injection pump or did you remove and go with pre-mix? Mark On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 7:08 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Yeah, Mark, that's my thinking too. I think I posted to share more than expecting a magic billet solution. Chris Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 21, 2013, at 18:45, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, At this point I wouldn't take anything for granted. I would install multiple oil pressure gauges throughout the system, one right at the front cover and one at the oil filter adapter block. It seems to me that there's got to be something you've overlooked. Suspect everything. I had an oil cooling problem that I couldn't seem to get a handle on until one day I noticed the upper tank of my dual pass oil cooler was shaped differently than the other end. It was bowed outward. In this design (dual-pass), there is a dam between the inlet and outlet ports. It is a tight fit, but it isn't welded to the tank. So, when the tank bowed, it allowed most of the oil to bypass the core, essentially rendering the oil cooler useless. I installed a new oil cooler and all is well. I tell this story to emphasize not to take anything for granted. Suspect everything, verify everything. You will find the problem hiding somewhere you never would have thought of in a million years. Think like inspector Columbo, "... just one more question, ma'am." Mark S. On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 5:58 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Well, if any of y'all are curious about my progress, I am grounded in Phase One. I am having oil pressure problems again. The frustration is huge. To add to this, most of the archive searches I have made give results that prominently feature my inquiries. <sigh> Following my engine out over the airport in April traced to gunk in the fuel rail, mods were made to the fuel system. During static tests the oil pressure would never come up to expectations. Hoping to lick the front o-ring problem that I have had SEVERAL times now, I pulled the front cover to take a look see. The o-ring was torn. I choose to be more assertive in trying to address this problem. I modified a brass fitting by grinding the OD to make it it cleanly fit inside the front iron (also, ground the inside diameter to keep flow as close as possible to stock) and tapped the front housing to accept the fitting to screw in. I then placed an o-ring around the fitting. I did not include the silicone ring this time as it kept preventing the smooth mating it the iron and cover. While apart, I verified the woodruff key was properly installed in the oil pump. The oil pump was replaced last time the cover was off. I also verified the oil pressure relief valve. It was still in place (not surprising since it has been safety wired in following it falling out once). I buttoned everything back up being meticulous that the o-ring mod seated properly. However, my oil pressure is still low. It's in the twenties (psi) while idling. This is not too bad as Racing Beat states this is acceptable at idle. But, when I rev it up to as much as 6000 (only long enough to verify trend) it only goes into the 30's. NOT acceptable. The engine has had carb jets replace the e-shaft ball. I believe this can lower the oil pressure a bit. Also, there is a front oil cooler installed. This necessitates about a 12 foot oil line run. It is plumbed in parallel. This could provide a bit lower pressure too I think. I using a mixture of Royal Purple 30, 40 and 50 oil. I added what was available at the time. I have yet to check the oil pressure regulator. I specifically remember installing it to torque with blue lock-tight last time I had access. I plan to isolate the engine from the coolers and filter and take readings using a mechanical gage. Currently I have two electronic gages, one for the RWS monitor and one for the SkyView monitor. They both read within a couple of psi from each other. If not for this Achilles Heal I would very likely out of Phase One and planning a trip to Osh. It has been a major distraction of energy and time. I know it could be bearings but the stationary gears and bearings were replaced at the last rebuild. Everything else seemed in spec. The front eccentric thermostat was replaced with the plug. The oil is flowing as the system heats up evenly. I need to see if the hoses are hard while running, as the no-pistons site says, hard like a brick. Insight as to what may be my problem and diagnostic course is always appreciated. I hope I have provided enough info and not omitted relevant information. I really can't express my annoyance/anger/disgust properly. Thanks again folks. Chris Barber. Houston Velocity 13b Sent from my iPhone 5 -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
I did not remove the shaft. I simply blocked the mount with a plate. Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 22, 2013, at 15:11, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Did you remove the OMP shaft? If you removed it, did you plug the oil galley? On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 12:51 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Pre-mix. Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 22, 2013, at 5:36, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, One question... are you running the oil injection pump or did you remove and go with pre-mix? Mark On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 7:08 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Yeah, Mark, that's my thinking too. I think I posted to share more than expecting a magic billet solution. Chris Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 21, 2013, at 18:45, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, At this point I wouldn't take anything for granted. I would install multiple oil pressure gauges throughout the system, one right at the front cover and one at the oil filter adapter block. It seems to me that there's got to be something you've overlooked. Suspect everything. I had an oil cooling problem that I couldn't seem to get a handle on until one day I noticed the upper tank of my dual pass oil cooler was shaped differently than the other end. It was bowed outward. In this design (dual-pass), there is a dam between the inlet and outlet ports. It is a tight fit, but it isn't welded to the tank. So, when the tank bowed, it allowed most of the oil to bypass the core, essentially rendering the oil cooler useless. I installed a new oil cooler and all is well. I tell this story to emphasize not to take anything for granted. Suspect everything, verify everything. You will find the problem hiding somewhere you never would have thought of in a million years. Think like inspector Columbo, "... just one more question, ma'am." Mark S. On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 5:58 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Well, if any of y'all are curious about my progress, I am grounded in Phase One. I am having oil pressure problems again. The frustration is huge. To add to this, most of the archive searches I have made give results that prominently feature my inquiries. <sigh> Following my engine out over the airport in April traced to gunk in the fuel rail, mods were made to the fuel system. During static tests the oil pressure would never come up to expectations. Hoping to lick the front o-ring problem that I have had SEVERAL times now, I pulled the front cover to take a look see. The o-ring was torn. I choose to be more assertive in trying to address this problem. I modified a brass fitting by grinding the OD to make it it cleanly fit inside the front iron (also, ground the inside diameter to keep flow as close as possible to stock) and tapped the front housing to accept the fitting to screw in. I then placed an o-ring around the fitting. I did not include the silicone ring this time as it kept preventing the smooth mating it the iron and cover. While apart, I verified the woodruff key was properly installed in the oil pump. The oil pump was replaced last time the cover was off. I also verified the oil pressure relief valve. It was still in place (not surprising since it has been safety wired in following it falling out once). I buttoned everything back up being meticulous that the o-ring mod seated properly. However, my oil pressure is still low. It's in the twenties (psi) while idling. This is not too bad as Racing Beat states this is acceptable at idle. But, when I rev it up to as much as 6000 (only long enough to verify trend) it only goes into the 30's. NOT acceptable. The engine has had carb jets replace the e-shaft ball. I believe this can lower the oil pressure a bit. Also, there is a front oil cooler installed. This necessitates about a 12 foot oil line run. It is plumbed in parallel. This could provide a bit lower pressure too I think. I using a mixture of Royal Purple 30, 40 and 50 oil. I added what was available at the time. I have yet to check the oil pressure regulator. I specifically remember installing it to torque with blue lock-tight last time I had access. I plan to isolate the engine from the coolers and filter and take readings using a mechanical gage. Currently I have two electronic gages, one for the RWS monitor and one for the SkyView monitor. They both read within a couple of psi from each other. If not for this Achilles Heal I would very likely out of Phase One and planning a trip to Osh. It has been a major distraction of energy and time. I know it could be bearings but the stationary gears and bearings were replaced at the last rebuild. Everything else seemed in spec. The front eccentric thermostat was replaced with the plug. The oil is flowing as the system heats up evenly. I need to see if the hoses are hard while running, as the no-pistons site says, hard like a brick. Insight as to what may be my problem and diagnostic course is always appreciated. I hope I have provided enough info and not omitted relevant information. I really can't express my annoyance/anger/disgust properly. Thanks again folks. Chris Barber. Houston Velocity 13b Sent from my iPhone 5 -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
Did you remove the OMP shaft? If you removed it, did you plug the oil galley? On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 12:51 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Pre-mix. Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 22, 2013, at 5:36, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, One question... are you running the oil injection pump or did you remove and go with pre-mix? Mark On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 7:08 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Yeah, Mark, that's my thinking too. I think I posted to share more than expecting a magic billet solution. Chris Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 21, 2013, at 18:45, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, At this point I wouldn't take anything for granted. I would install multiple oil pressure gauges throughout the system, one right at the front cover and one at the oil filter adapter block. It seems to me that there's got to be something you've overlooked. Suspect everything. I had an oil cooling problem that I couldn't seem to get a handle on until one day I noticed the upper tank of my dual pass oil cooler was shaped differently than the other end. It was bowed outward. In this design (dual-pass), there is a dam between the inlet and outlet ports. It is a tight fit, but it isn't welded to the tank. So, when the tank bowed, it allowed most of the oil to bypass the core, essentially rendering the oil cooler useless. I installed a new oil cooler and all is well. I tell this story to emphasize not to take anything for granted. Suspect everything, verify everything. You will find the problem hiding somewhere you never would have thought of in a million years. Think like inspector Columbo, "... just one more question, ma'am." Mark S. On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 5:58 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Well, if any of y'all are curious about my progress, I am grounded in Phase One. I am having oil pressure problems again. The frustration is huge. To add to this, most of the archive searches I have made give results that prominently feature my inquiries. <sigh> Following my engine out over the airport in April traced to gunk in the fuel rail, mods were made to the fuel system. During static tests the oil pressure would never come up to expectations. Hoping to lick the front o-ring problem that I have had SEVERAL times now, I pulled the front cover to take a look see. The o-ring was torn. I choose to be more assertive in trying to address this problem. I modified a brass fitting by grinding the OD to make it it cleanly fit inside the front iron (also, ground the inside diameter to keep flow as close as possible to stock) and tapped the front housing to accept the fitting to screw in. I then placed an o-ring around the fitting. I did not include the silicone ring this time as it kept preventing the smooth mating it the iron and cover. While apart, I verified the woodruff key was properly installed in the oil pump. The oil pump was replaced last time the cover was off. I also verified the oil pressure relief valve. It was still in place (not surprising since it has been safety wired in following it falling out once). I buttoned everything back up being meticulous that the o-ring mod seated properly. However, my oil pressure is still low. It's in the twenties (psi) while idling. This is not too bad as Racing Beat states this is acceptable at idle. But, when I rev it up to as much as 6000 (only long enough to verify trend) it only goes into the 30's. NOT acceptable. The engine has had carb jets replace the e-shaft ball. I believe this can lower the oil pressure a bit. Also, there is a front oil cooler installed. This necessitates about a 12 foot oil line run. It is plumbed in parallel. This could provide a bit lower pressure too I think. I using a mixture of Royal Purple 30, 40 and 50 oil. I added what was available at the time. I have yet to check the oil pressure regulator. I specifically remember installing it to torque with blue lock-tight last time I had access. I plan to isolate the engine from the coolers and filter and take readings using a mechanical gage. Currently I have two electronic gages, one for the RWS monitor and one for the SkyView monitor. They both read within a couple of psi from each other. If not for this Achilles Heal I would very likely out of Phase One and planning a trip to Osh. It has been a major distraction of energy and time. I know it could be bearings but the stationary gears and bearings were replaced at the last rebuild. Everything else seemed in spec. The front eccentric thermostat was replaced with the plug. The oil is flowing as the system heats up evenly. I need to see if the hoses are hard while running, as the no-pistons site says, hard like a brick. Insight as to what may be my problem and diagnostic course is always appreciated. I hope I have provided enough info and not omitted relevant information. I really can't express my annoyance/anger/disgust properly. Thanks again folks. Chris Barber. Houston Velocity 13b Sent from my iPhone 5 -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
Pre-mix. Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 22, 2013, at 5:36, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, One question... are you running the oil injection pump or did you remove and go with pre-mix? Mark On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 7:08 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Yeah, Mark, that's my thinking too. I think I posted to share more than expecting a magic billet solution. Chris Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 21, 2013, at 18:45, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, At this point I wouldn't take anything for granted. I would install multiple oil pressure gauges throughout the system, one right at the front cover and one at the oil filter adapter block. It seems to me that there's got to be something you've overlooked. Suspect everything. I had an oil cooling problem that I couldn't seem to get a handle on until one day I noticed the upper tank of my dual pass oil cooler was shaped differently than the other end. It was bowed outward. In this design (dual-pass), there is a dam between the inlet and outlet ports. It is a tight fit, but it isn't welded to the tank. So, when the tank bowed, it allowed most of the oil to bypass the core, essentially rendering the oil cooler useless. I installed a new oil cooler and all is well. I tell this story to emphasize not to take anything for granted. Suspect everything, verify everything. You will find the problem hiding somewhere you never would have thought of in a million years. Think like inspector Columbo, "... just one more question, ma'am." Mark S. On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 5:58 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Well, if any of y'all are curious about my progress, I am grounded in Phase One. I am having oil pressure problems again. The frustration is huge. To add to this, most of the archive searches I have made give results that prominently feature my inquiries. <sigh> Following my engine out over the airport in April traced to gunk in the fuel rail, mods were made to the fuel system. During static tests the oil pressure would never come up to expectations. Hoping to lick the front o-ring problem that I have had SEVERAL times now, I pulled the front cover to take a look see. The o-ring was torn. I choose to be more assertive in trying to address this problem. I modified a brass fitting by grinding the OD to make it it cleanly fit inside the front iron (also, ground the inside diameter to keep flow as close as possible to stock) and tapped the front housing to accept the fitting to screw in. I then placed an o-ring around the fitting. I did not include the silicone ring this time as it kept preventing the smooth mating it the iron and cover. While apart, I verified the woodruff key was properly installed in the oil pump. The oil pump was replaced last time the cover was off. I also verified the oil pressure relief valve. It was still in place (not surprising since it has been safety wired in following it falling out once). I buttoned everything back up being meticulous that the o-ring mod seated properly. However, my oil pressure is still low. It's in the twenties (psi) while idling. This is not too bad as Racing Beat states this is acceptable at idle. But, when I rev it up to as much as 6000 (only long enough to verify trend) it only goes into the 30's. NOT acceptable. The engine has had carb jets replace the e-shaft ball. I believe this can lower the oil pressure a bit. Also, there is a front oil cooler installed. This necessitates about a 12 foot oil line run. It is plumbed in parallel. This could provide a bit lower pressure too I think. I using a mixture of Royal Purple 30, 40 and 50 oil. I added what was available at the time. I have yet to check the oil pressure regulator. I specifically remember installing it to torque with blue lock-tight last time I had access. I plan to isolate the engine from the coolers and filter and take readings using a mechanical gage. Currently I have two electronic gages, one for the RWS monitor and one for the SkyView monitor. They both read within a couple of psi from each other. If not for this Achilles Heal I would very likely out of Phase One and planning a trip to Osh. It has been a major distraction of energy and time. I know it could be bearings but the stationary gears and bearings were replaced at the last rebuild. Everything else seemed in spec. The front eccentric thermostat was replaced with the plug. The oil is flowing as the system heats up evenly. I need to see if the hoses are hard while running, as the no-pistons site says, hard like a brick. Insight as to what may be my problem and diagnostic course is always appreciated. I hope I have provided enough info and not omitted relevant information. I really can't express my annoyance/anger/disgust properly. Thanks again folks. Chris Barber. Houston Velocity 13b Sent from my iPhone 5 -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
Chris, One question... are you running the oil injection pump or did you remove and go with pre-mix? Mark On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 7:08 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Yeah, Mark, that's my thinking too. I think I posted to share more than expecting a magic billet solution. Chris Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 21, 2013, at 18:45, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, At this point I wouldn't take anything for granted. I would install multiple oil pressure gauges throughout the system, one right at the front cover and one at the oil filter adapter block. It seems to me that there's got to be something you've overlooked. Suspect everything. I had an oil cooling problem that I couldn't seem to get a handle on until one day I noticed the upper tank of my dual pass oil cooler was shaped differently than the other end. It was bowed outward. In this design (dual-pass), there is a dam between the inlet and outlet ports. It is a tight fit, but it isn't welded to the tank. So, when the tank bowed, it allowed most of the oil to bypass the core, essentially rendering the oil cooler useless. I installed a new oil cooler and all is well. I tell this story to emphasize not to take anything for granted. Suspect everything, verify everything. You will find the problem hiding somewhere you never would have thought of in a million years. Think like inspector Columbo, "... just one more question, ma'am." Mark S. On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 5:58 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Well, if any of y'all are curious about my progress, I am grounded in Phase One. I am having oil pressure problems again. The frustration is huge. To add to this, most of the archive searches I have made give results that prominently feature my inquiries. <sigh> Following my engine out over the airport in April traced to gunk in the fuel rail, mods were made to the fuel system. During static tests the oil pressure would never come up to expectations. Hoping to lick the front o-ring problem that I have had SEVERAL times now, I pulled the front cover to take a look see. The o-ring was torn. I choose to be more assertive in trying to address this problem. I modified a brass fitting by grinding the OD to make it it cleanly fit inside the front iron (also, ground the inside diameter to keep flow as close as possible to stock) and tapped the front housing to accept the fitting to screw in. I then placed an o-ring around the fitting. I did not include the silicone ring this time as it kept preventing the smooth mating it the iron and cover. While apart, I verified the woodruff key was properly installed in the oil pump. The oil pump was replaced last time the cover was off. I also verified the oil pressure relief valve. It was still in place (not surprising since it has been safety wired in following it falling out once). I buttoned everything back up being meticulous that the o-ring mod seated properly. However, my oil pressure is still low. It's in the twenties (psi) while idling. This is not too bad as Racing Beat states this is acceptable at idle. But, when I rev it up to as much as 6000 (only long enough to verify trend) it only goes into the 30's. NOT acceptable. The engine has had carb jets replace the e-shaft ball. I believe this can lower the oil pressure a bit. Also, there is a front oil cooler installed. This necessitates about a 12 foot oil line run. It is plumbed in parallel. This could provide a bit lower pressure too I think. I using a mixture of Royal Purple 30, 40 and 50 oil. I added what was available at the time. I have yet to check the oil pressure regulator. I specifically remember installing it to torque with blue lock-tight last time I had access. I plan to isolate the engine from the coolers and filter and take readings using a mechanical gage. Currently I have two electronic gages, one for the RWS monitor and one for the SkyView monitor. They both read within a couple of psi from each other. If not for this Achilles Heal I would very likely out of Phase One and planning a trip to Osh. It has been a major distraction of energy and time. I know it could be bearings but the stationary gears and bearings were replaced at the last rebuild. Everything else seemed in spec. The front eccentric thermostat was replaced with the plug. The oil is flowing as the system heats up evenly. I need to see if the hoses are hard while running, as the no-pistons site says, hard like a brick. Insight as to what may be my problem and diagnostic course is always appreciated. I hope I have provided enough info and not omitted relevant information. I really can't express my annoyance/anger/disgust properly. Thanks again folks. Chris Barber. Houston Velocity 13b Sent from my iPhone 5 -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
Yeah, Mark, that's my thinking too. I think I posted to share more than expecting a magic billet solution. Chris Sent from my iPhone 5 On Jun 21, 2013, at 18:45, "Mark Steitle" <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote: Chris, At this point I wouldn't take anything for granted. I would install multiple oil pressure gauges throughout the system, one right at the front cover and one at the oil filter adapter block. It seems to me that there's got to be something you've overlooked. Suspect everything. I had an oil cooling problem that I couldn't seem to get a handle on until one day I noticed the upper tank of my dual pass oil cooler was shaped differently than the other end. It was bowed outward. In this design (dual-pass), there is a dam between the inlet and outlet ports. It is a tight fit, but it isn't welded to the tank. So, when the tank bowed, it allowed most of the oil to bypass the core, essentially rendering the oil cooler useless. I installed a new oil cooler and all is well. I tell this story to emphasize not to take anything for granted. Suspect everything, verify everything. You will find the problem hiding somewhere you never would have thought of in a million years. Think like inspector Columbo, "... just one more question, ma'am." Mark S. On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 5:58 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Well, if any of y'all are curious about my progress, I am grounded in Phase One. I am having oil pressure problems again. The frustration is huge. To add to this, most of the archive searches I have made give results that prominently feature my inquiries. <sigh> Following my engine out over the airport in April traced to gunk in the fuel rail, mods were made to the fuel system. During static tests the oil pressure would never come up to expectations. Hoping to lick the front o-ring problem that I have had SEVERAL times now, I pulled the front cover to take a look see. The o-ring was torn. I choose to be more assertive in trying to address this problem. I modified a brass fitting by grinding the OD to make it it cleanly fit inside the front iron (also, ground the inside diameter to keep flow as close as possible to stock) and tapped the front housing to accept the fitting to screw in. I then placed an o-ring around the fitting. I did not include the silicone ring this time as it kept preventing the smooth mating it the iron and cover. While apart, I verified the woodruff key was properly installed in the oil pump. The oil pump was replaced last time the cover was off. I also verified the oil pressure relief valve. It was still in place (not surprising since it has been safety wired in following it falling out once). I buttoned everything back up being meticulous that the o-ring mod seated properly. However, my oil pressure is still low. It's in the twenties (psi) while idling. This is not too bad as Racing Beat states this is acceptable at idle. But, when I rev it up to as much as 6000 (only long enough to verify trend) it only goes into the 30's. NOT acceptable. The engine has had carb jets replace the e-shaft ball. I believe this can lower the oil pressure a bit. Also, there is a front oil cooler installed. This necessitates about a 12 foot oil line run. It is plumbed in parallel. This could provide a bit lower pressure too I think. I using a mixture of Royal Purple 30, 40 and 50 oil. I added what was available at the time. I have yet to check the oil pressure regulator. I specifically remember installing it to torque with blue lock-tight last time I had access. I plan to isolate the engine from the coolers and filter and take readings using a mechanical gage. Currently I have two electronic gages, one for the RWS monitor and one for the SkyView monitor. They both read within a couple of psi from each other. If not for this Achilles Heal I would very likely out of Phase One and planning a trip to Osh. It has been a major distraction of energy and time. I know it could be bearings but the stationary gears and bearings were replaced at the last rebuild. Everything else seemed in spec. The front eccentric thermostat was replaced with the plug. The oil is flowing as the system heats up evenly. I need to see if the hoses are hard while running, as the no-pistons site says, hard like a brick. Insight as to what may be my problem and diagnostic course is always appreciated. I hope I have provided enough info and not omitted relevant information. I really can't express my annoyance/anger/disgust properly. Thanks again folks. Chris Barber. Houston Velocity 13b Sent from my iPhone 5 -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
Chris, At this point I wouldn't take anything for granted. I would install multiple oil pressure gauges throughout the system, one right at the front cover and one at the oil filter adapter block. It seems to me that there's got to be something you've overlooked. Suspect everything. I had an oil cooling problem that I couldn't seem to get a handle on until one day I noticed the upper tank of my dual pass oil cooler was shaped differently than the other end. It was bowed outward. In this design (dual-pass), there is a dam between the inlet and outlet ports. It is a tight fit, but it isn't welded to the tank. So, when the tank bowed, it allowed most of the oil to bypass the core, essentially rendering the oil cooler useless. I installed a new oil cooler and all is well. I tell this story to emphasize not to take anything for granted. Suspect everything, verify everything. You will find the problem hiding somewhere you never would have thought of in a million years. Think like inspector Columbo, "... just one more question, ma'am." Mark S. On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 5:58 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote: Well, if any of y'all are curious about my progress, I am grounded in Phase One. I am having oil pressure problems again. The frustration is huge. To add to this, most of the archive searches I have made give results that prominently feature my inquiries. <sigh> Following my engine out over the airport in April traced to gunk in the fuel rail, mods were made to the fuel system. During static tests the oil pressure would never come up to expectations. Hoping to lick the front o-ring problem that I have had SEVERAL times now, I pulled the front cover to take a look see. The o-ring was torn. I choose to be more assertive in trying to address this problem. I modified a brass fitting by grinding the OD to make it it cleanly fit inside the front iron (also, ground the inside diameter to keep flow as close as possible to stock) and tapped the front housing to accept the fitting to screw in. I then placed an o-ring around the fitting. I did not include the silicone ring this time as it kept preventing the smooth mating it the iron and cover. While apart, I verified the woodruff key was properly installed in the oil pump. The oil pump was replaced last time the cover was off. I also verified the oil pressure relief valve. It was still in place (not surprising since it has been safety wired in following it falling out once). I buttoned everything back up being meticulous that the o-ring mod seated properly. However, my oil pressure is still low. It's in the twenties (psi) while idling. This is not too bad as Racing Beat states this is acceptable at idle. But, when I rev it up to as much as 6000 (only long enough to verify trend) it only goes into the 30's. NOT acceptable. The engine has had carb jets replace the e-shaft ball. I believe this can lower the oil pressure a bit. Also, there is a front oil cooler installed. This necessitates about a 12 foot oil line run. It is plumbed in parallel. This could provide a bit lower pressure too I think. I using a mixture of Royal Purple 30, 40 and 50 oil. I added what was available at the time. I have yet to check the oil pressure regulator. I specifically remember installing it to torque with blue lock-tight last time I had access. I plan to isolate the engine from the coolers and filter and take readings using a mechanical gage. Currently I have two electronic gages, one for the RWS monitor and one for the SkyView monitor. They both read within a couple of psi from each other. If not for this Achilles Heal I would very likely out of Phase One and planning a trip to Osh. It has been a major distraction of energy and time. I know it could be bearings but the stationary gears and bearings were replaced at the last rebuild. Everything else seemed in spec. The front eccentric thermostat was replaced with the plug. The oil is flowing as the system heats up evenly. I need to see if the hoses are hard while running, as the no-pistons site says, hard like a brick. Insight as to what may be my problem and diagnostic course is always appreciated. I hope I have provided enough info and not omitted relevant information. I really can't express my annoyance/anger/disgust properly. Thanks again folks. Chris Barber. Houston Velocity 13b Sent from my iPhone 5 -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
Well, if any of y'all are curious about my progress, I am grounded in Phase One. I am having oil pressure problems again. The frustration is huge. To add to this, most of the archive searches I have made give results that prominently feature my inquiries. <sigh> Following my engine out over the airport in April traced to gunk in the fuel rail, mods were made to the fuel system. During static tests the oil pressure would never come up to expectations. Hoping to lick the front o-ring problem that I have had SEVERAL times now, I pulled the front cover to take a look see. The o-ring was torn. I choose to be more assertive in trying to address this problem. I modified a brass fitting by grinding the OD to make it it cleanly fit inside the front iron (also, ground the inside diameter to keep flow as close as possible to stock) and tapped the front housing to accept the fitting to screw in. I then placed an o-ring around the fitting. I did not include the silicone ring this time as it kept preventing the smooth mating it the iron and cover. While apart, I verified the woodruff key was properly installed in the oil pump. The oil pump was replaced last time the cover was off. I also verified the oil pressure relief valve. It was still in place (not surprising since it has been safety wired in following it falling out once). I buttoned everything back up being meticulous that the o-ring mod seated properly. However, my oil pressure is still low. It's in the twenties (psi) while idling. This is not too bad as Racing Beat states this is acceptable at idle. But, when I rev it up to as much as 6000 (only long enough to verify trend) it only goes into the 30's. NOT acceptable. The engine has had carb jets replace the e-shaft ball. I believe this can lower the oil pressure a bit. Also, there is a front oil cooler installed. This necessitates about a 12 foot oil line run. It is plumbed in parallel. This could provide a bit lower pressure too I think. I using a mixture of Royal Purple 30, 40 and 50 oil. I added what was available at the time. I have yet to check the oil pressure regulator. I specifically remember installing it to torque with blue lock-tight last time I had access. I plan to isolate the engine from the coolers and filter and take readings using a mechanical gage. Currently I have two electronic gages, one for the RWS monitor and one for the SkyView monitor. They both read within a couple of psi from each other. If not for this Achilles Heal I would very likely out of Phase One and planning a trip to Osh. It has been a major distraction of energy and time. I know it could be bearings but the stationary gears and bearings were replaced at the last rebuild. Everything else seemed in spec. The front eccentric thermostat was replaced with the plug. The oil is flowing as the system heats up evenly. I need to see if the hoses are hard while running, as the no-pistons site says, hard like a brick. Insight as to what may be my problem and diagnostic course is always appreciated. I hope I have provided enough info and not omitted relevant information. I really can't express my annoyance/anger/disgust properly. Thanks again folks. Chris Barber. Houston Velocity 13b Sent from my iPhone 5 -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html