I forgot about that. You can mill off those handy eyebrows around the
plug holes, Or with a good electric die grinder with a carbide bit. Or buy a
thin wall socket from Racing Beat. Or make one yourself on your lathe. Or, use
the die grinder to enlarge the hole to fit the socket.
There is enough material. All of this to force you to use NGK
plugs.
Now tighten the new plug into a scrap housing, or your wife's Honda to 14
foot pounds and then back out. This to flatten the sealing washer.
Then wipe on just a hint of Nickel anti-seize on the threads. Nothing
within 1/4" of the tip. Practice torqueing to 10 pounds with extension
sticking through between your middle and ring fingers. Torque a plug into a
scrap housing to 9 pounds, then turn it by hand to what you think is 10
pounds. Then check the plug with the wrench set at 11 pounds.
The plug should turn a bit to get to 11 pounds. Get a feel for 10 pounds
using your wrist only. 10 pounds with lube is plenty. After a few
installations the anti-seize will have been spread all the way to the inside
end of the plug hole. Great heat conductivity. Plugs will never lock up in the
hole. Threads will last as long as the housing.
Always use a torque wrench. But if none is available you can do the
ring finger trick and get 10 pounds every time. Only you tighten plugs, not
your ham fisted brother in law.
Lynn E. Hanover
In a message dated 5/6/2011 9:11:15 P.M. Paraguay Standard Time,
res12@fairpoint.net writes:
Question for Lynn,
what are the racers doing about torqueing this
plug? its hex section disappears in the rotor housing because it is so
short.
Along the same line, I considered some time ago
trying surface gap plugs, but ran into the same problem.
By the way, the AR2592 is no longer carried by
AutoZone, it is now available at Advanced Auto Parts.
Richard
Sohn
N2071U